From the monthly archives:

June 2009

 Make up should be a tool to make you look good, use cosmetics to enhance, not disguise, and experiment with different colors to accentuate your natural assets.

PRIMERS : Does your complexion look dull and lifeless? Do you have uneven skin tone? Are your cheeks often red? If you suffer from discoloration, spend, time priming your skin to rectify problems before applying make-up. It pays off in the long run and creates the perfect canvas for cosmetic application.

Color correctors. Work by counterbalancing their opposing hue, toning down or brightening the complexion and camouflaging imperfections. Green takes out the redness from blemishes, thread veins, ruddy cheeks and sunburn. Lilac revives tired, sallow skin and adds radiance under harsh lights.  Yellow evens out skin tone and can be mixed with foundation to with pale skin, covering dark spots and toning down mild redness on the cheeks and around the base of the nose. Apricot can be used as a general pick-me-up for dull skin. White gives the skin luminosity and  lightens dark circles under the eyes.

The secret of using a color corrector. Lies in application and thorough blending. One of the biggest beauty blunders is a brightly colored corrector shining through make-up. For the best results, paint the color corrector on with a fine-tipped brush, use your fingertips to melt the color into your skin and then apply foundation.

 CONCEALER : To disguise pimples and under-eye bags, you no longer need numerous tools of the trade. An oil-free stick concealer is the best all-round option for cover-up work. Steer clear of oil-based preparations as they have a tendency to slide on and then glide off, or settle in fine lines and wrinkles. Look for a shade that is slightly lighter than your choice of foundation. If you can’t find the exact color match, try mixing a couple of shades on the back of your hands before applying.

To disguise under-eye bags. Gently pat concealer along the orbital bone under the eye and blend it in with your fingertips. Set the  area with a light dusting of powder. As signs of ageing become more obvious around the eyes, avoid using powder as it will only accentuate these traits.

To mask minor imperfections. Use a fine-tipped make-up brush. Concentrate color on the center of a pimple and feather outwards. Set the area with powder. To zap blemishes, dab on a drop of lavender oil, known for its anti-bacterial properties, under concealer. If camouflaged imperfections dry out and look unsightly during the day, pat on a little moisturizer with your fingertip and lightly dust with powder. This instantly gives the skin a new lease of life.

  LIQUID FOUNDATIONS : Come in various forms. Water-based formulas sit combination or problem kinds; oil-based formulas help hydrate dry skins; and oil-free variants are ideal for oily skins.

 STICK FOUNDATIONS : Provide excellent coverage but can be difficult to apply. Smooth on with your fingertips or use a damp sponge.

TINTED MOISTURIZERS : Both enhance and provide protection from the sun. However, shades are limited and coverage is minimal. They are great for summer wear.

COMPACT FOUNDATIONS : Combine foundation and powder in one and are easy to use. This type of foundation is suitable for all skin types.

 MOUSSE FOUNDATIONS : Are light and light and airy and feel weightless once applied. As coverage is minimal, they suit young, blemish-free skins.

CREAM FORMULATIONS : Have a moisture-rich feel, which makes them perfect for dry skins. They give extra coverage and provide a dewy finish.

 FOUNDATION : Foundation should cover but not whitewash your entire face. With clever application, foundation can mask imperfections and at the same time give your skin a clean, seemingly unmade-up finish.

SHADE SELECTION : Finding the perfect color match is one of the toughest beauty jobs and it can make or break your look.

Experiment with different shades. And take into account your natural skin tone. Fair complexions should opt for ivory bases with yellow undertones and steer clear of pinkish shades. Yellow-toned complexions should go for a beige base with a yellow undertone. Olive skins need pinkish-toned foundation, otherwise the skin will look sallow and dull. Dark complexions often suffer from uneven skin tone, so use foundation to rectify this. Opt for a shade that is specifically formulated for dark skin, otherwise the complexion will appear ashy from the excess of titanium dioxide contained in most products. Consider whether your skin is dry, normal or oily and find the right formulation to suit your skin type.

APPLICATION : Use foundation sparingly and only apply it where necessary (to the T-zone or to camouflage imperfections). Complete foundation coverage can make your face appear caked and unnatural.

For the best results. Warm foundation on the back of your hand and then smooth it on with your fingertips. Apply compact foundations with a damp or dry sponge, depending on the desired result. For maximum coverage, use a damp sponge but work quickly because the formula dries fast. For retouches, apply foundation with a dry sponge.

POWDER : Powder is the perfect tool to set your base and keep any oily secretions at  bay.  The choice of passed or loose powder depends on personal preference. Pressed formulations are easy to use and ideal for retouches, while loose powder can be messy to apply.

Use face powder only where essential. Dust it onto areas prone to shine such as the nose, chine and forehead. Forth best results, use a large brush and work down your face (to prevent particles of powder from catching under superfluous facial hair and giving an uneven finish). Always blow on a loaded brush before dusting on powder This removes excess powder and prevents overload. After applying powder, set your base by spritzing your face with mineral water or facial toner. This ensures a fresh, dewy finish that does not look too powdered.

 TRICKS OF THE TRADE : To test foundation shades, select three appropriate colors and put a streak of each over your face and jawline. The foundation that literally disappears into the skin is the appropriate one. Never sample shades on  the back of your hand as the skin there is a different tone to the skin on your face.

If you have sensitive skin. Avoid foundations containing fragrance and PABA sunscreens.

Foundation can slide off. Within hours of application because of the skin’s natural oil secretions. To solve this, use a formula incorporating oil absorbers such as talc, kaolin or nylon powders.

Shield your skin. With a foundation containing a sun-protection factor. This is essential for daily wear, even when the weather is overcast.

Blot your skin with a tissue. After applying foundation to remove excess oil from your face. This helps to prolong the life of your make-up base. Then set with powder.

Wash sponges. Powder puffs or special applicators regularly. Use warm water and a little dishwashing liquid to remove bacteria and impurities.

 EYEBROWS : Eyebrows act as a frame for your eyes and add definition and strength to your face. Even if you are not wearing make-up, well-groomed eyebrows enhance your total look.

To shape your eyebrows. Invest in a pair of slant-edged tweezers which grip hairs easily. Pluck before going to bed, so if the skin is a little red it will calm down while you sleep. Use your facial features as a guideline to shape your eyebrows. Place a ruler or pencil vertically alongside your nose and the inner edge of each eye. This is where the brows should start. Swivel the ruler or pencil form the top to the outer corner of the eye. This is where the brows should end.

Before plucking. Comb the brows one way and then the other to remove any loose hairs and then brush them into shape. Pluck hairs between the brows and any stragglers but never remove hairs from above your eyebrows. To achieve the perfect arch, hold a ruler vertically next  to the outside of the arch. Pull the skin taut and pluck hairs individually, grasping close to the root, always working in the direction of growth. To avoid over-plucking, make-up artists recommend drawing in the desired brow shape with a pale concealer and using this as a guideline. 

 To define your eyebrows. Use a shade similar to your natural hair color and aim for an unmade-up looking finish. If you use a pencil, apply in small, feathered strokes (no longer than the average brow hair). Start at the inner corner of the brow and work outwards, then blend the color with a brush or your fingertips. Alternatively, use a sponge-tipped applicator and dust on a natural shade of eyeshadow that complements your hair color, and follow the shape of the brow.

To tame unruly eyebrows. And keep stray hairs in place, don’t splash out on expensive products. Slick moisturizer, hair gel or lip gloss through your brows and comb through to neaten them. Instead of discarding old mascara wands, clean them thoroughly with soap and warm water and then use them as brow-grooming implements.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE : 

Sharpen blunt tweezers. Bu running sandpaper over the inner tips.

If plucking is too painful. Smooth on baby’s teething gel to temporarily numb the area.

Substitute a toothbrush. For a brow comb to groom your brows.

If you are slapdash. When applying brow pencil, take a tip from the experts. Rub the pencil on the back of your hand. Run over the mark you’ve made with a brow brush or cotton bud and use this to shade the brows instead.

EYESHADOW : Use eyeshadow to shade and highlight your eyes. Once you have mastered the basics of application, experiment with color. Remember that  shades are not nearly as intense as they appear in their palettes always apply them sparingly and gradually build up color. Never match eyeshadow with the color of your iris look for shades that will enhance and bring out the natural hue of your eyes. As you age, it’s best to avoid wearing pearlised eyeshadows;  matt colors have a more flattering effect on mature eyes.

EYELINER : Use eyeliner  to define and enhance your eyes. Pencils are easy to use and you don’t need to be a professional to apply them. Should uneven lines or mishaps occur, simply smudge them into shape with a sponge-tipped applicator. Liquid eyeliner is the perfect tool to give eyes instant glamour but it can be tricky to apply. To make the task easier, place a mirror flat on a table and rest the hand manoeuvring the liner on this hard surface. Look down into the mirror and apply the liner. To improve the staying power of eyeliner, dip a moistened cotton bud into a similar shade of eyeshadow and use this to trace the line.

 MASCARA : Before applying  mascara, always give the lashes a quick fix with lash curlers. Clamp  them near the roots and hold for 30 seconds. Never curl lashes loaded with mascara you run the risk of tearing them from the roots if the mascara dries or catches on the curlers. 

To instantly plump up lashes. Plant the mascara wand into the root and sweep through to the tips. This gives root definition and separates the lashes at the same time. To define your lower lashes, use the tip of the wand and gently work the brush horizontally over the lashes. Separate the lashes using a comb and rectify and mishaps any mishaps with a cotton bud.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE :

If your eye pencil crumbles. As you’re using it, clasp the nib between your fingers and run it under cold water. This temporarily hardens the pencil to ease applications.

If you are short-sighted. Corrective lenses will magnify your eyes. Opt for eyeshadows in muted colors.

If you are far-sighted. Glasses make your eyes appear smaller. Go for brighter eyeshadow and several coats of mascara to make your eyes stand out.

If you have close-set eyes. Concentrate light colors on the inner corners and darker shades on the outer edges of your eyes.

To lift droopy eyes. Shade the outer corners of the eyes, tapering color upwards and outwards.

To elongate round eyes. Use color on the mid and outer eyelid. Don’t apply eyeliner on the lower lash line.

If you have wide-set eyes. Use darker colors on the inner corners and light shades on the outer edges of your eyes.

to enhance small eyes. Avoid using dark eyeshadow and concentrate color on the socket lines and outer corners of your eyes.

 LIP LINER : It can be tricky to achieve the perfect lip-line, especially if you are a little over-enthusiastic and don’t have a steady hand. The best method is to apply the liner in a series of feather-strokes around the outer edge of the lips, then join and blend these with your fingertips or a lip brush.

If you want to do corrective work. For example, plump up narrow lips or emphasise a cupid’s bow, keep it to a minimum. It can look messy and require constant retouches. Instead, experiment, with  different shades of lipstick. Pale tones add fullness t the lips and dark shades have a slimming effect.

 LIP GLOSS : You don’t have to match your lipstick with your clothing or nail varnish. For a modern finish, take your skin tone and overall make-up look into consideration. Shades with brown undertones will flatter most complexions.

There is  great variety of lipstick textures. Which range form matt and cream to sheer tints. Experiment with these,  bearing in mind that matt  is long-long-lasting but  has a tendency to dehydrate the lips; creamy formulations last well; and lip tints provide a natural look and add lustre.

APPLICATION : Repeat this several times. Add a final coat of lipstick. Alternatively, once you’ve applied lipstick, place a tissue over the lips and dust them with a small amount of loose powder, ten remove the tissue.

TRICKS OF THE TR ADE : 

Protect your lips. With lip balm or lipstick containing SPF 15. The lips do not contain melanin, the body’s natural sun-defence substance, and the lower lip is a common site for skin cancers.

If you’re in a hurry. Avoid wearing red and dark-colored lipsticks as they require precision application. Try lipsticks with neutral tones.

Avoid dark lip colors. If you have narrow lips. Paler shades enhance the  shape of the lips, making them  appear fuller.

If your lip liner is too dark. And won’t work in harmony with your chosen lip color, tone it down with a small amount of foundation, then apply lipstick.

Give your lips a top coat. Of vitamin E oil. It  seals in the color, creates instant shine and helps to condition and protect this sensitive area.

Brightly colored lipsticks. Look great but there’s catch; because of the density of their color pigment, they tend to feather and bleed around the lip-line. To prevent this, define and coat the lips with liner before applying lipstick.

There is nothing more taboo. Than lipstick on your teeth. To prevent this, put your index finger in  our mouth and close your lips. As you withdraw your finger it will remove any excess color which could end up on your teeth.

 BLUSHER : Blusher should  be used to add the finishing touches to your make-up and also to warm your skin. Whether you use a cream or powder formulation, the aim is to give your cheeks subtle definition and balance your total cosmetic look. 

Cream blushers. Are easy to  apply as they literally melt into the skin. They’re also beneficial for older skins as they won’t accentuate fine lines and wrinkles. Powder blushers are also easy to use and can be  applied in seconds. Use your foundation finish as a guideline to choose a blusher formulation: team powdered complexions with powder blusher and creamy bases with cream blusher. Choose a shade that complements your make-up and skin tone. Use your lipstick color as a guide or invest in a natural tone which will flatter your skin and work well with any make-up look.

 APPLICATION : Be careful not to place the color too close to the outer corners  of your eyes when you apply blusher. It can creep into lines and crow’s-feet around the eyes and look caked. Also, always ensure you blend blusher thoroughly. 

To contour your cheeks. Use a brush and follow the line of your cheekbone, working in small, circular movements. Dust the blusher on from the top of the bone downward so that the color fade is gradual.

To give your cheeks a rosy glow. Concentrate blusher onto the cheek apples, the roundest part of the cheekbone. Dust the color on the centre of the bone and work in small circular  motions to achieve a natural finish.

 CHANGING FACES : You can temporarily transform the shape of your face with a shader (a tone deeper than your existing blusher) and a high-lighter (you can use an ivory -colored eyeshadow). Use these lightly and blend thoroughly. 

Round faces. Dust  shader into your cheek hollows, high on your temples next to your hairline and faintly under your chin. Highlight along your cheekbones. Wearing blusher is optional but be wary of dusting it onto your cheek apples this may emphasise the roundness of your face.

Oval faces. Blend shader into cheek hollows and highlight the cheekbones near your eyes. Dust blusher onto cheek apples.

Heart-shaped face. To balance your face, highlight the cheekbones  near your eyes. Dust blusher onto cheek apples.

Heart-shaped Faces. To balance your face, highlight your chin,  shade your temples and dust blusher to your cheek hollows.

Square faces. Highlight the  central strip from the centre of your forehead to your chin. Shade the sides of your forehead next to your hairline and faintly shade the square extremities of your jawline. Dust blusher onto your cheek apples.

 TRICKS OF THE TRADE :

Create your own blusher. By using a natural pink or apricot shade of lipstick and dab it onto your cheek apples. Blend thoroughly using your fingertips.

To fade a double chin. Blend a shader onto the area to make it less dominant. If you darken the double chin, it will recede  into  the background.

Use creamy eyeshadow. In natural shades  if you’ve run out of cream blusher.

To add a healthy glow. Employ a bronzing powder as a blusher and gradually build up the color.

For a flattering finish. If your don’t wear eyeshadow, sweep blusher over your eyelids to give subtle definition.

NAIL POLISH : Whether you opt for a pale enamel or the fashionable color of the moment, nail polish can accentuate your hands and add the finishing touches to your complete beauty look.

When selecting shades of nail enamel. Take your skin tone into account. Use the inside of your wrist as a guideline. If your skin has a bluish tinge, opt for shades with a cool base. If you have yellow-or olive-toned skin, opt for a warm-based polish. Avoid co-ordinating the color of your fingernails and toenails and never fall into the trap of matching nail polish with clothing and lipstick. A mismatched look is much more modern.

EXPRESS MANICURE : To keep your nails in optimum condition, run a soft-bristled nailbrush horizontally over them whilst in the shower. This will treat the cuticles, step up circulation and strengthen your nails.

Forget pushing the cuticles back manually. Look for a cuticle cream enriched with an alpha hydroxy acid complex. It helps dissolve dead skin cells and keeps cuticles in order.

Remove old polish with an acetone polish. It will temporarily dehydrate the nail so polish locks onto the nail plate more effectively.

Take short cuts to shape your nails. Use nail clippers first, then finish with a nail file. Only work the file in one direction otherwise you can traumatise the nail plate.

 The secret to a lasting manicure. Lies in preparation. Before applying polish, run your hands under warm water and wash with a lanolin-free soap to remove any residues of nail treatments which can weaken nail polish. Your nails will then be ready for the application of color.

TRICKS OF  THE TRADE : 

Nails need protection. From the sun. Use a top coat enriched with UV filters. This also protects the nail polish from discoloration.

Never trim your cuticles. They protect the nail bed and act as a barrier against intruding bacteria. Gently push the cuticles back with a wet facecloth whilst in the shower.

If you have uneven ridges. In your nails, avoid pearly or frosted polishes as they highlight imperfections.

To make nail polish last. Store it in the fridge. To ensure an even consistency, never shake a bottle of nail polish. Instead, turn it upside down once and then gently roll it between the palms of your hands.

If you’re pushed for time. Give nude nails a high shine by running a chamois buffer over them in horizontal sweeping motions.

Invest in specialty products. Such as base coat and top coat as they have different purposes. A base coat feels sticky once applied to act as a fixative for nail enamel. It also prevents dark-colored polishes from staining the nail plate. A top coat dries hard, locking in color to give the surface a hard, protective barrier.

To clean up any smudges. And imperfections, use an old, clean lip brush dipped in nail polish remover.

If the nail plate is stained. From wearing highly pigmented polish, dissolve two denture-cleansing tablets in a glass of water. Dip a nail brush into the solution and gently scrub your nails clean. Rinse your hands with warm water.

 TOOLS OF THE TRADE [1] Scissors an essential tool for beauty up-keep. [2] Eyebrow tamer/lash comb use the brush to tame eyebrows and the comb to separate eyelashes. [3] Fine-tipped brush to conceal pimples and minor imperfections. [4] Cotton buds essential to rectify make-up mistakes. [5] Lip brush use to outline and shade lips. [6] Flat brush this is a must to remove stray particles of eyeshadow which can fall under the eyes during application. [7] Powder brush a large-bristled brush delivers just the right amount of powder. [8] Blusher brush use this brush to dust color gently onto the cheek apples or to accentuate the shape of the cheekbones. [9] Lash groomer to tidy lashes and define  their shape, especially if you’re not wearing mascara. [10] Eyeshadow brush a soft-bristled brush is ideal for blending eyeshadow and defining the eye socket with color. [11] Sponge-tipped applicator for applying eyeshadow. [12] Slant-edged brush perfect for shading the brows with eyeshadow. [13] Tweezers slant-edged tweezers grab hold of the hairs to ease plucking. [14] Eyelash curlers giving the lashes definition instantly opens the eyes. [15] Sponge use to smooth on foundation and to set your base after application. [16] Tissues a necessity  for blotting foundation and lipstick after applying.

 EXPRESS MAKE-OVER :

Follow these steps to achieve a natural look.

PRIME TIME : Begin by applying a hydrating preparation to give your skin a smooth finish. This will also act as the perfect fixative for foundation. Always blot your skin with a tissue after moisturizing to remove any excess surface oil.

TAKE COVER : Conceal pimples and disguise imperfections. To touch out blemishes, apply concealer with a fine-tipped brush. Dab color onto the centre of the pimple, then feather outwards. Pat concealer under the eyes, blending with the fingertips.

TOUCH BASE : Use a foundation with a built-in sunscreen. Smooth it on with your fingertips, warming it to melt into your skin. Only apply to areas that need it, where the skin tone is uneven, or to disguise open pores. Blend thoroughly.

PERFECT POWDER : Keep powder to a minimum. Look for a yellow-undertoned formula as translucent powder zaps color and may leave you looking washed out. Only dust powder onto areas prone to shine like the nose and chin.

BRIGHT EYES : Dab a light-toned eye-shadow onto the eyelid using a sponge-tipped applicator. Then apply a darker shade of the same color on the socket line with an eye-shadow brush. Blend thoroughly to achieve  gradual color change.

 DEFINER LINE : Definer the lower lash line with a taupe kohl pencil, then set with a light dusting of eye-shadow (the same shade used on the eye socket). Applying liner on the upper lash line isn’t necessary to achieve a natural look.

MAGIC WAND : Enhance your eyelashes by gradually plumping them up with several coats of mascara. This will be far more flattering than making one heavy-handed application. Plant the wand into the roots and gently pull through to the ends.

COLOR WASH : Use a lip liner in a shade that is similar to the natural  color of your lips. Outline and shade the entire lip area. Next, apply a reddish brown lipstick and blot with a tissue. Reapply and repeat this process several times.

BLUSH TACTIC : To give your cheeks subtle color, load a blusher brush with a rosy beige powder, gently blow on it to remove excess powder, then softly sculpt the cheekbones. Set by pressing a damp sponge into the skin.

TOP COAT : Add the final touches with a slick of clear lip gloss. To accentuate your pout, concentrate shine on the centre of the lower lip. To define your eyebrows. smooth them into place with a small amount of gloss and comb to neaten.

 PROBLEM AND SOLUTION :

[1] Does your blusher vanish within hours of application?  Overcome this with double-color application. Pat on cream blusher over  foundation and then set with powder blusher in a similar shade.

[2] Do you end up with mascara-clogged lashes? Prior to application, wipe the mascara wand with a tissue. This removes the excess mascara which can overload the eyelashes.

[3] Does your foundation emphasise fine lines and wrinkles? Avoid wearing matt foundations they will only accentuate lines and wrinkles. Creamy formulas give a dewy finish and detract from signs of ageing.

[4] Do you suffer from tired, lifeless-looking eyes? Applying a smudge of silver shine on the inner corner of each eye will instantly revitalise and brighten sleep-looking eyes.

[5] Can you achieve great-looking nails in a hurry? Run a white eyeliner underneath the nail tip and then paint the nail with a fast-drying coat of clear polish. This creates a French-manicured effect within minutes.

[6] How do you remove traces of smudged eyeliner or flaky mascara without disturbing the rest of your make-up? Arm yourself with cotton buds or an old, clean lip brush. Dip the bud or brush in make-up remover and gently use it to perfect mistakes.

[7] Are you too heavy-handed with blusher? Tone down unsigtly color by pressing face powder into your cheeks, then spritz your skin with water or facial toner.

[8] Is your lip pencil hard to manoeuvre? Gently run the nib of the pencil over the back of the hand before applying.

 

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SKINCARE : The skin’s needs change from season to season, and with age, hormonal fluctuations, diet and lifestyle. Finding products to suit these requirements can often be a costly, hit-and-miss affair. To make skincare simple, first identify your skin type and then address its needs.

Normal skin : Has an even tone, a smooth texture, no visible pores or blemishes, and no greasy  patches or flaky areas. A basic beauty regime is sufficient to maintain its natural balance, but don’t be tempted to neglect your skin a great-looking complexion won’t last forever.

Sensitive skin : Is commonly dry, delicate and prone to allergic  reactions. Temperature changes, some detergents, cosmetics and alcohol (used on the skin) can all cause irritation, leaving the skin red and blotchy, with visible surface veins. Choose products that do not contain allergens such as fragrance or PABA sunscreens.

 Oily skin : Is characterised by an over-production of sebum (the skin’s natural hydrator), which results in spots and blemishes. The great advantage of this skin type is that it ages at a slower rate than other skin types. Avoid harsh products that strip your skin of oil and encourage flakiness. They can cause a reaction known as reactive seborrhoea, where the oil glands work overtime to compensate for the loss of natural oils. Products that leave your skin feeling taut and dehydrated should also be avoided, as they cause the upper layers the skin to shrink. This restricts oil flow through the pores and leads to blockages and breakouts. To cleanse oily skin, use oil-based products as they dissolve sebum effectively. Opt for oil-free moisturizers to maintain a shine-free complexion.

Dry skin : Has a low level of sebum and can be prone to sensitivity. Dryness is exacerbated by wind, extremes of temperature and airconditioning, all of which cause the skin to flake, chap and feel tight. Use moisture-rich products and increase the intake of essential fatty acids in your diet. If you have dry skin, use a cream-or oil-based cleanser. Avoid water-soluble variants as exposing dry skin to water can aggravate the condition. 

SKIN SOLUTIONS :
 Exercise. Benefits skin as it boosts circulation and encourages blood flow. Regular exercise will nourish and cleanse your skin form within.

 CLEANSING : When you choose a cleanser, consider your skin type and your personal preferences. Also bear in mind that cleanser is only ever on the skin for little more than 30 seconds. An effective cleanser should remove impurities without leaving any residue or greasy film on your skin once it is removed.

Avoid cleansing with soap and water. Skin is slightly acidic whereas soap is alkaline it disrupts the skin’s  naturally acidic protective film. An oil-based cleanser it suitable for all skin types and removes make-up effectively. Water-soluble and oil-based cleansers are ideal for oily and combination skins. Cream cleansers suit dry skins. If your have sensitive skin, avoid cleansers rich in fragrance, color and any potential skin irritants.

When applying an oil-based or cream cleanser. Smooth it on, leave it for a few seconds to dissolve impurities and then gently wipe it off with a damp tissue or cotton wool. If you’re using wash-off cleanser, apply it to damp skin and then rinse with warm water. Removing cleanser with a facial sponge or cleansing brush will remove impurities and exfoliate the skin at the same time.

EXFOLIATING : Skin constantly produces new cells and sheds old ones. Normal skin renews its cells every 28 days. This process slows down with age, and leaves the complexion looking dull and lifeless. Exfoliating scrubs, creams or gels whisk away dead skin cells and the manual pressure exerted during exfoliation peps up circulation and helps stimulate cell production. Exfoliate your face every  tow to three days. If you have acne or sensitive skin, use a peel-off face mask instead of an exfoliator.

TONING : Using toner after cleansing is optional. With refresh your skin and remove any impurities or remnants of cleanser. Avoid alcohol based toner even if you have an oily complexion, as it strips the skin of essential moisture. Floral waters are inexpensive alternatives to commercial toners: witch-hazel is ideal for oily, problem skin; rose water for dry complexions; and camomile water suits both normal and sensitive skins.

 SKIN SOLUTIONS :

(1) To cleanse the eye area. Don’t use your normal cleanser. Look for special oil-free eye make-up removers. They contain scientifically rested ingredients that won’t irritate  the delicate eye area. 

(2) After cleansing. Gently splash your face with cold water. This is a great pick-me-up in the mornings and will jump-start the skin’s circulation.

(3) Avoid exfoliating. The skin on your face if you have networks of surface veins, it can intensify the problem.

(4) For a skin-reviving treat. Decant some toner into a plastic spray bottle and store it in the fridge. Use it when required  as a skin booster or as a cooling treat in summer.

 MOISTURIZING : Your skin has  a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) that regulates water flow from the dermis (the skin’s deepest layer) to the surface. Sebum (the skin’s natural hydrator) also plays a vital role in the prevention of moisture loss, forming a barrier on the surface of the skin that delays water evaporation. With age, both the NMF and sebum production decrease, hence the need for a water-regulating moisturizer. All skin types, even those prone to oiliness, need moisturizing twice a day.

There are two types of moisturizers: Humectants and occlusives. Humectants draw water up form the depths of the dermis or attract it from the surrounding atmosphere. Occlusives create an oily film on the skin’s surface to seal in moisture and prevent it from evaporating into the atmosphere.

Choose a moisturizer to suit your skin type : Oil-free formulas and oil-in-water emulsions benefit oily skins, and water-in-oil formulations, which are more hydrating, suit dry/normal skins. Always spritz your skin with water before applying moisturizer. The water ‘plumps’ up the skin cells, creating an even surface and makes lines less apparent, and the moisturizer prevents this water from evaporating. Today’s advanced formulations can maintain this effect for up to 12 hours.

 STEAMING : Giving your face a steam  or sauna is a good deep-cleansing treat, especially for congested skin. Remove all make-up and add three drops of each essential oil recommended for your skin type; for normal skin use lavender and mandarin; for dry skin use camomile and rose; for oily skin lemon and eucalyptus; and for combination skin lavender and cypress. Once you’ve added the oils, agitate the water to disperse the droplets. Hold your face about 20-30 cm above the bowl and place  a towel over your head and the bowl for three minutes. This opens the pores and prepares your skin for the application of a face mask.

Avoid this treatment if you have sensitive skin : Or broken capillaries on your face. This intense heat of the water  causes the blood vessels under the surface of the skin to dilate, exacerbating the problem. Facial steaming is not recommended if you are pregnant or suffer from asthma.

 SKIN SOLUTIONS :

(1) To apply moisturizer. Pat it onto your skin instead or smoothing it on. This increases circulation and invigorates your complexion.

(2) During the day. Use a moisturizer containing sunscreen and smooth on a preparation enriched with antioxidants or alpha hydroxy acids at night.

(3) While steaming your face. Protect the delicate skin around your eyes with a film of moisturizer.

(4) To zap pimples. And blemishes, dab tea-tree or lavender oil (which both have anti-bacterial properties) onto the effected area with a cotton bud.

FACE MASKS :  Use a face mask once a week. For the best results, apply the mask after a facial steam and leave it on only for the time specified by the manufacturer. 

When choosing a mask : Bear the following in mind: mud-or clay-enriched masks are ideal for deep-cleansing the skin. They contain negatively charged ions, which attract positively charged impurities. Gel-based masks set to form a fine film, which when washed away removes dead cells and grime. Rich cream masks (which do no set) are beneficial for dry and mature skins. Sulphur-based masks treat oily and problems skins but should not be used on sensitive or dry skins. Fast-acting masks are an option when you’re pushed for time.

EYE CARE : Because the skin around your eyes is much thinner than the skin on the rest of your face, it requires extra care, especially to ward off sings of ageing. Use an eye cream or gel both at nigh and in the morning. Only apply it along the orbital bone (the bone directly under the eye). Gently pat it on, being careful not to drag the skin.

Dark circles under your eyes. Can be the result of poor circulation, medication, illness or toxin build-up; they can also be hereditary. The skin in this area is thin, so the blood vessels lie close to the surface, giving it a blue-black tint. If the blood vessels leak, darker, even permanent, discoloration can occur. Dark circles can be camouflaged with concealer, or permanently lightened by a chemical peel, an extremely painful process.

Puffiness around your eyes. Is caused by a build-up of toxins or excess fluids. To help reduce any swelling, stimulate your lymphatic system by pressing gently along the eyebrow and around the eye socket with your middle finger. For a cooling and soothing effect, store an eye cream or gel in the fridge and gently pat it onto the delicate skin around your eyes.

LIP CARE : Lips lack several of the body’s protective substances, so they  need extra protection. Without an effective lipid barrier, they lose moisture regularly; their lack of hydrating sebaceous glands makes them prone to chapping and dryness; and, lacking melanin (the body’s natural protector), they burn easily. 

Wear protective lip balm. Enriched with a sun filter or lipstick with a high SPF when outdoors. To maintain the condition of your lips, coat them with Vaseline and then gently exfoliate using a clean toothbrush.

SKIN SOLUTIONS :

(1) Treat sore eyes. Caused by exposure to the sun, wind or chlorine with a soothing eye bath. Try blending 1-2 tablespoons of rose water with 150 ml distilled water to bathe your eyes.

(2) Avoid taking antibiotics. If possible as they destroy intestinal bacteria, which are essential for healthy skin. If you take antibiotics, counterbalance their effects by eating foods rich in vitamin B.

(3) Keep your lips hydrated. With lip balm and make sure the surrounding skin is sufficiently moisturized to prevent lines form appearing around your mouth.

 CHANGING FACES :

Address your skin’s  needs as you age : IN YOUR  20s, since cell turnover is at its best, your complexion should be in optimum condition after undergoing major changes in the teenage years. If your skin is functioning properly, a basic skincare regime is sufficient. Avoid soaps as they have a dehydrating effect, so look for pH-balanced cleansing bars instead. Toner is optional and use a moisturizer regularly. Pay close attention to your neck, throat and hands when applying moisturizer and look after the delicate skin around your eyes.

 If you sunbathed regularly. As a teenager, damage to your skin’s blueprint cells may already have been done. Take preventative measures by wearing sunscreen daily.

Skin prone to excessive oiliness. And pimples is often a result of hormones that are still stabilising . Opt for oil-free skincare products and cosmetics. Steaming your face regularly and applying face masks will also benefit congested skin.

IN YOUR  30s. Cell turnover and sebum production decrease and lines and wrinkles become more obvious. Exfoliate your skin at least twice a week and use a hydrating mask once a week. Use an eye-care preparation at night and in the morning.

Pigmentation problems. Are common during these years as the skin becomes less efficient at manufacturing melanin. brown patches known as melasma or chloasma can appear around the eyes, lips, cheeks and forehead during pregnancy, or as a result of hormonal changes, exposure to the sun or taking the contraceptive pill. There are various options to treat uneven skin tone. Creams containing hydroquinone, a substance that temporarily halts pigment production, help the condition. Retina A is also an option for treating hyper-pigmentation but if your skin is sensitive, it can actually  cause further darkening. Laser resurfacing can also be used to remove patches of uneven skin tone.

 IN YOUR 40s. The protective film on the skin’s surface becomes less effective at retaining moisture. This causes a much higher percentage of water loss, which leads to dryness. Apply moisturizer twice a day and look for preparations such as firming serums that offer the skin extra reinforcement.

Fine lines, wrinkles, broken veins. And dull skin  can be made less apparent with chemical peels or regular facials. Exfoliate your skin and treat both your face and eyes to treatment masks twice a week. Use a cream cleanser instead of a water-soluble type, as constantly wetting and drying your face will  only step up moisture loss. Increase your intake of antioxidants by eating fresh fruits and vegetable or by taking a daily vitamin supplement.

Sun or age spots. On the face can treated with creams containing retinoic acid, hydroquinone, glycolic or kojic acid. They can also be eradicated by chemical peels and laser treatments.

IN YOUR 50s. Cell turnover decreases by almost 50%, the production of sebum for natural hydration slows down and the skin’s outer layer becomes less resilient. After the menopause, oestrogen (the skin’s youth hormone) production slows down and the skin becomes much drier. Oestrogen diminishes collagen (the skin’s structural support system), making the skin thinner. Using a product enriched with an alpha hydroxy acid is believed to boost the production of collagen. Look for moisture-rich products, use a cream cleanser, avoid alcohol-based toners and opt for specialist products to care for your eyes and lips. Ensure that you drink sufficient amounts of water each day.

As the skin’s resilience breaks down. Broken capillaries can appear on the surface. These can be treated with a course of laser resurfacing or sclerotherapy, in which a solution is injected into the vein, causing it to recede.

 PREVENT SKIN AGEING :

There are two types of skin ageing: intrinsic ageing, the natural, biological process which is beyond our control; and extrinsic ageing, which is caused by factors including environmental aggressors, diet, lifestyle, medication and stress. In the past, anti-ageing procedures were limited. Now there are relatively simple measures on offer which give results that are comparable to a surgical facelift.

MASSAGE : When applying moisturizer, try lightly circling your hands up form your chin to the center of your forehead and gliding each hand down each side of your face, repeating 12 times. To keep facial lines form setting in around your mouth, over-exaggerate smiling, and then gnash your teeth together. Repeat each motion 24 times. To prevent a wrinkled neck, sweep your hands up under your chin and down again. Repeat 12 times.

 MUSCLE TONING : Electrotherapy involves the stimulation of the underlying muscles of the face with a mild, painless electric current. This treatment is costly and requires constant maintenance sessions after the initial course.

ANTIOXIDANTS : Skin is constantly under attack form free radicals, rogue molecules that accelerate premature ageing. Vitamins E and C and beta-carotene are antioxidants that help put a stop to free radical activity. All working in slightly different ways,  the overall effect of antioxidants in creams will protect the skin form environmental factors, while antioxidants taken orally, in tablet form or from foods such as fresh fruits and vegetables help to neutralise the by-products of this oxidation process. Antioxidants should be an integral part of any anti-ageing regime.

LYMPH STIMULATION : Women can suffer from water retention on both the face and body. Stimulating the lymphatic system helps address this problem. Lymphatic drainage fails help reshape the face by reducing puffiness around the eyes, cheeks and chin. 

LINE FILLERS : For those who want to lessen the appearance of wrinkles caused by frowning and scowling, line-filling injections are an option. Synthetic collagen or the body’s own fat, which is removed from an area such as the hips or thighs, is injected into wrinkles. The results are short-term, as collagen is absorbed into the body within three months and only some of the fat remains permanent. To maintain effects, top-up treatments are essential.

AHAs : With regular use, AHAs improve overall skin texture and make ageing skins look more radiant. They are also reputed to boost the production of  collagen and hyaluronic acid (the skin’s natural water retaining substance).

CHEMICAL PEELS : High concentrates of alpha hydroxy acids are used to peel off the outer layers of the skin, removing fine lines and wrinkles. The concentration of acids used ranges from 15% strength, commonly used in beauty salons, to 70% strength, administered by surgeons and dermatologists for severely damaged and mature skins. Recovery periods very depending on the strength of the peel. It can be a painful process but it does result in younger, smoother skin.

LASER RESURFACING : A good alternative to surgery, laser resurfacing removes the outer layers of old, wrinkled or sun-damaged skin. It can also treat age spots and uneven skin tone. This non-invasive treatment is more accurate and less painful than the surgeon’s knife, and the skin heals faster than if you’ve had cosmetic surgery. Recovery periods vary, usually 10 days after a treatment the skin is red but can be concealed with make-up. Within six weeks it will have healed totally.

 HEALTHY SKIN :

Follow these steps to achieve a radiant complexion.

DETOX DRINK : Start your day with a cup of boiling water laced with the juice of half a lemon. This drink flushes out any impurities that may have but up in your system overnight. Lemon also acts as a gentle cleanser for the liver.

FADDISH FOODS : Apart from piling on the pounds, certain fats actually accelerate ageing because they increase free radical activity within the body. Avoid polyunsaturated fats. which are found mainly in processed foods and in peanut, safflower and corn oils.

INNER HEALTH : Improve skin condition from within by taking a cod liver oil tablet once a day. Cod liver oil is a rich source of vitamins A and D and essential fatty acids, all vital for a radiant complexion. It is also reputed to help disorders such as eczema and psoriasis.

EYE BATH : Alternatively, place two stainless steel spoons in the freezer for a couple f minutes, and then place them over your eyes to reduce puffiness.

 STUB IT OUT : Smoking half a packet of cigarettes a day for two years can double the rate of premature facial wrinkling. If  you give up smoking, ease withdrawal symptoms by taking a high-potency vitamin B complex supplement.

HUMIDITY CONTROL : Airconditioning  robs the skin of essential moisture and can aggravate dryness. If you work in an airconditioned office or use a radiator during winter, buy a humidifier or place a bowl of water next to your desk. These will boost the moisture content of the air.

 HELPING HAND : If you have a youthful complexion, aged hands can give the game away. Always wear hand cream enriched with sun filters. Before washing up. slather on hand cream, then put on rubber gloves. The heat of the water will intensify the activity of he cream.

 SLEEP WELL : How you sleep can affect your looks. Dermatologists can identify which side of your face you sleep on by looking at your wrinkles. To help overcome this, sleep on a big, soft non synthetic pillow with a satin pillow case.

 PROBLEM AND SOLUTION :

(1) How can you temporarily zap pimples ?  Make-up artists use eyedrops to eradicated pimples. Dab a drop onto blemishes with a cotton bud to reduce surface redness.

(2) Is there a way to improve problem skin? Oily skins can be aggravated by eating certain foods. Steer clear of oranges, orange juice, tomatoes and dairy produce.

(3) Should you wear a sunscreen every day? Shield your skin at all times with high SPF products, even when the weather is overcast, as 60-80% of the sun’s damaging ultraviolet rays penetrate clouds.

(4) Does your skin feel taut after cleansing?  Using a harsh cleanser or rinsing with hot water can have a dehydrating effect on your skin. Use a cream cleanser to avoid this problem.

(5) Is there a quick fix for puffy eyes? If you wake up with puffy eyes, soak two cotton wool pads in cold milk and then use them as compresses on your eyes for 10 minutes.

(6) Do you have open pores? Often hereditary, open pores on the chin, forehead and nose can be treated with regular cleansing and facials to remove excess sebum.

(7) How can you keep blackheads at bay? Steaming your face regularly and applying face masks will treat blackheads.

(8) How much water should you drink to maintain healthy skin?  Aim to drink between one and two litres of filtered or bottled spring water each day. Drinking more than this puts unnecessary pressure on the kidneys.

(9) Should exfoliators be applied on wet or dry skin? Only use an exfoliator on damp skin, otherwise it can have an abrasive effect. Avoid using an exfoliator if you have surface veins.

(10) Do you have tiny, pearl-colored spots around your eyes and cheeks?  Known as milia, these spots are formed when sebum is trapped under the skin. Seek professional help from a beauty therapist to remove them.

 

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INSIDE OUT

June 25, 2009 Anti Aging And Skin Care

 Inner health affects outer beauty, To address your body’s needs, follow a nutritional  cleansing regime. It will benefit the way you look and improve the way you feel.

INNER HEALTH : Does your skin look dull and lifeless? Do you wake up in the morning feeling tired and ‘hung-over,’ even though you haven’t been drinking the night before? If so, it’s time to cancel out the detrimental effects of modern living and treat your body to a complete cleansing regime.

The by-products of smoking : Processed foods, late nights, alcohol and stressful sedentary lifestyles take their toll on the body. They put extra strain on the organs (especially the liver) and use up or destroy vital nutrients, which can lead to conditions ranging from skin problems and allergies to fatigue, premature ageing and more serious diseases such as cancer. As all of this activity occurs internally, an overload of toxins can often go undetected. The most common symptoms are nausea, headaches or recurrent skin complaints.

 BODY CLEANSING : The most effective way to ’spring-clean’ your body is to follow a raw fruit and vegetable fast. In addition to detoxifying your system and flushing out your colon, it will improve your energy levels, increase your ability to concentrate and perhaps even enhance your outlook on life.

Fruits and vegetables : Contain specific nutrients and compounds called phytochemicals. These are powerful substances that help to ward off premature ageing and the development of degenerative diseases. Eliminating other foods temporarily form your diet will take the pressure off your body and stimulate the liver’s excretion process.

Embark on a detoxification regime : On the weekend or when your schedule is not too demanding, as you may experience fatigue, headaches, aching muscles, unsettled emotions, diarrhoea, tiredness or skin breakouts. (These are all encouraging signs that your body is detoxifying.) Because of these dramatic changes, eat small meals or drink juice regularly (preferably every 2-3 hours) to ensure that your body’s blood-sugar levels remain constant.

Never follow this type of regime : If you are pregnant, diabetic, epileptic, anaemic or suffering from a serious illness. Aim to incorporate a one day detox into your lifestyle on a regular basis. For a long, more intensive detoxification regime, always consult a naturopath for guidance.

HEALTHY SOLUTIONS :

To aid digestion. And cleanse your palate, start the day with a cup of boiling water mixed with the juice of half a lemon.

To supplement a detox. Regime, naturopaths recommend taking milk thistle or dandelio, and a good multivitamin and vitamin B complex.

Dry skin brushing. While you detox will increase the elimination of wastes from your body.

Invest in a juicer. A blender is not an effective alternative if you want to make a range of fruit and vegetable juices.

Sip juices slowly. This enables the juice to mix with saliva as you drink, enhancing digestion.

Drinking water. Helps to flush toxins from your body. Aim to drink at least one litre of filtered or bottled spring water daily.

DETOXIFICATION REGIME : The day before starting a fruit and vegetable detox, eat cooked and raw vegetables, brown rice and salads. Avoid animal products, alcohol and sweetened foods. Wean yourself off caffeine by substituting tea and coffee with herbal teas.

On your fasting day. Consume raw fruit and vegetables such as apples, pineapples, mangoes, pawpaws, watermelon, grapes, pears, celery, carrots,  tomatoes spinach and beetroot. Vary the way you prepare your chose foods: juices are easy for your body to assimilate quickly and efficiently, taking on average only – minutes to digest, but eating fruit and vegetables in their natural state is essential for roughage.

Try the following menu plan. During your detoxification regime: for breakfast, have a large glass of fresh fruit blended with a green leafy vegetable juices (choose from spinach, celery, carrot, tomato, raw beetroot or mixed vegetable) and have a large salad. For dinner, have a glass of vegetable or fruit juice and a light salad. Drink herbal tea or coffee substitutes.

 JUICING REMEDIES : Address common ailments wit fresh fruits and raw vegetables. If you suffer from constipation, try drinking the juice of fruit and vegetables that have a natural laxative effect, such as rhubarb, apples, spinach, prunes and pears.

If you suffer from water retention. Increase your intake of potassium-rich foods such as bananas, prunes, raisins, figs, seaweed, broccoli, spinach, fish, green vegetables, celery and apples, Juice made form watermelon, grape and cucumber will also help to eliminate excess water from your system.

 If you suffer from eczema. Increase your intake of foods rich in bioflavonoids, such as sweet peppers, tomatoes, parsley, and cabbage, to help reduce surface inflammation. Eating foods containing zinc, such as carrots, garlic and ginger, and essential tatty acids, such as fish, nuts and seeds, will benefit eczema.

If you suffer from pre-menstrual syndrome (PMS). Opt for juices made from pineapple. This fruit contains an enzyme called bromelain, which has a soothing, relaxing effect on the body’s muscle tissue. It also helps to ease period pain.

HEALTHY SOLUTIONS : Spice up raw juices with ginger. You don’t need to peel it, just cut it into small slices before juicing.

For effective body cleansing drink fruit juices in the morning and savoury vegetable juices during the rest of the day.

After your cleansing regime, don’t be tempted to feast on unhealthy foods it will undo all of the good work. Continue eating fruit, salads, vegetables and vegetable soups, and then gradually introduce wholefoods and solids to maintain a balanced diet.

 NUTRITIONAL BENEFITS :

[1] APPLE : Contains beta-carotene, vitamins B  and C and potassium, and is a great source of fibre. Apples don’t need to be peeled or cored for juicing and are ideal to blend with most other fruits and vegetables. 

[2] CELERY : Benefits the complexion and maintains healthy blood. For a nutritious, tasty juice, blend celery with carrot and apple.

[3] ORANGE : (Like other citrus fruits) is loaded with vitamin C and is an excellent energy booster. Always peel oranges before juicing the skins of all citrus fruits are waxed to preserve their shelf life.

[4] BEETROOT : Is an extremely effective blood and kidney cleanser. As a juice, it can be combined with other vegetables such as celery, carrots, spinach and cucumber. Wash the leafy tops of the beetroot and include them in the juice.

[5] PINEAPPLE : Contains the enzyme bromelain, which breaks down protein. It is believed to assist in sinus decongestion, to help treat urinary infections, to assist with sleeping problems and is also used as an anti-inflammatory treatment for arthritis. 

[6] BANANAS : Are a rich source of potassium, an essential mineral for muscle and nerve functioning. Avoid unripe bananas they can cause intestinal wind.

[7] GRAPES : Are an excellent source of potassium, and red and black grapes contain vital antioxidants. If you can’t sleep, drink juice made from grape and pineapple before going to bed.

[8] TOMATO : Is a useful source of vitamin C and E. (Recurrent mouth ulcers and eczema could be an indication that tomatoes don’t agree with you.)

[9] WATERMELON Contains a high water content that is believed to stimulate the functioning of the kidneys.

[10] LEMON : Is a good palate and liver cleanser, but should be used sparingly because of its high acidity. Don’t add more than half a lemon or lime to a glass of juice.

ALTERNATIVE THERAPIES :

 Fine-tune your health with a holistic approach:

AYURVEDIC MEDICINE : Ayurvedic medicine balances general healthy, controls stress and treats specific complaints that fall to respond to orthodox medicine. This traditional Indian medicine and philosophy system embraces all aspects of well-being and works on the principle that  it is possible to live for 100 years, hence its reputation as an anti-ageing system. The human body is governed by three doshas, or bio-energies. Vata is responsible for movement; pitta, metabolism; and kapha, growth and structure, ideally, all doshas should be balanced (disharmony can lead to illness). Diet, exercise (especially yoga), massage, meditation and strict lifestyle guidelines all help to maintain this balance. Herbs may be prescribed for specific illnesses.

BUSH FLOWER REMEDIES :  Bush flower remedies treat emotions (such as anger, grief, and low self-esteem) that trigger physical conditions. They were devised in the 1930s by English pathologist and bacteriologist Edward Bach, who believed that if plants were floated in pure water in full sunlight, they would energies the water with their  molecular imprint. This principle led to the development of over 70 Australian bush  flower essences. These include Waratah, which boosts strength and resourcefulness and is used as an anti-stress remedy; and Billy Goat Plum, which dispels self-loathing and encourages sexual fulfilment. Bush flower remedies can be smoothed on the skin in a cream or taken as drops on the tongue.

CRANIO-SACRAL THERAPY : Cranio-sacral therapy treats headaches, migraine, sinus problems, stress, and posture-related shoulder and back pain. It is an offshoot of cranial osteopathy, which uses subtle manipulation to free tension between the bones of the head and spine. The region from the cranium (top of the head) to the sacrum (base of spine) has an energy system with its own subtle pulse. Tension blocks can affect the entire body. Cranio-sacral therapy supports the head, spine and other regions to allow tension to uncoil naturally and the body’s energy to flow in the direction it wants to. It involves no pulling, rubbing or massage, just a deeply reassuring sensation of being held gently while your body relaxes. 

DANCE THERAPY : Dance therapy, which promotes body awareness, relieves stress, increases mobility and boosts self-esteem, is based on the premise that movement is an important means of non-verbal communication. Dance therapy systems including Laban Dance Therapy and  the Chilean ‘Biodanza’ are useful adjuncts to counseling, psychotherapy and physiotherapy. Sessions are held in groups and can initially be quite confrontational. You are encouraged to describe your feelings through movements to various musical beats. Therapists believe that as you eventually learn to open up, your confidence increases and social interaction becomes easier. The aim is to use your entire body to its full potential.

ELECTRO-CRYSTAL THERAPY : Electro-crystal therapy balances physical and emotional energy, which helps to heal injuries. Devised by English ex-science teacher Harry Oldfield, this controversial system aims to re-tune the body’s natural vibrations with electromagnetic fields that are amplified by crystals. An X-ray-like camera scans the body for high-frequency light waves that indicate states of energy flow. These are then relayed to a computer screen for diagnosis. The electro-crystal therapist studies the swirling areas of color for the blocked or weak energy zones underlying the patient’s problems. Then electro-magnetic fields are beamed at trouble spots to rebalance the body’s energies. 

 FELDENKRAIS METHOD : This method improves posture and mobility, overcoming stiffness, injury or disability. Devised in the 1940s by ex-atomic physicist, Moshe Feldenkrai, It involves the teaching of gentle movement sequences that optimise and balance posture and movement. The theory of body awareness through movement is taught verbally in classes. Then functional integration is taught on a one-to-one basis, where the teacher guides the pupil through a series of gentle manipulations and touches. Often the process of re-learning freedom of movement begins with slow, strain-free floor exercises that resemble the way babies first stretch and move. The more relaxed a pupil becomes, the freer the movements will be.

GEM THERAPY : Gem therapy balances energies, dispels negatively charged atmospheres and encourages positive thought. The idea that semi-precious and precious stones can be used to heal is thousands of y ears old. Chosen according to color and clarity or opaqueness, there is a stone that relates to virtually every human condition. Quartz and amethyst crystals, for example, are both considered universal ‘cure-all’ that can also amplify other healing methods. The gems are either placed on or around the body. Some give out energy, while others are thought to absorb pain. They c an also be used to channel energy. Wearing gems as protective talismans next to skin is the most popular form of gem therapy.

HELLER WORK TECHNIQUE : Heller work improves posture and mobility, releases emotions, eases injuries and promotes personal growth. Developed by Joseph Heller, who believed that psychological trauma is held in the muscles  and fascia (tissues that envelop them). Heller work involves deep-reaching restructuring and rebalancing bodywork. Poor posture, for example, may result from low self-esteem, charactrised by hunched shoulders. Heller work concentrates on de-hunching the body and freeing the negative emotions. It entails manipulation ranging form firm to almost invasive. Each session concentrates on a different body zone and the emotion it carries. The releases enables both physical and emotional progression .

IRIDOLOGY ANALYSIS : Iridology is a diagnostic method that identifies physical and emotional disorders by analysing the irides, or irises, of the eyes. Iridologists claim that the entire body is reflected by the eyes, because this is where the entire nervous system surfaces. Color and texture of the iris indicates the patient’s state of health and personality type, which may predispose them to illness. (Both present and past problems may be evident.) Various flecks and marks on the eye indicate problems in the relevant body zone. As iridology is diagnostic only, the patient may be referred to a nutritionist or naturopath for treatment. Iridology is also used to monitor orthodox  treatments, or to check up on general health. 

KINESIOLOGY TREATMENT : Kinesiology treats problems (such as psoriasis, candida, PMS. allergies and brouchitis) that seem to defy other therapies. It is a system of diagnosis and treatment based on muscle testing and works on the principal that the body knows exactly what it needs. The kinesiologiest asks a series of health-related questions and applies light, tapping pressures to each arm. It the answer is no, the muscle weakens and the arm drops. As well as diagnosing, tapping can also tide the body of intolerances and allergies. Other energising and clearing techniques involve crystals, essential oils, magnets, which are held against the body during treatment.

LIGHT THERAPY : Light therapy treats depression, stiff joints, infertility, PMS and Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD). Excess sun threatens skin health, but insufficient light can disrupt the metabolism and hormonal a balance, causing physical and balance causing physical and psychological problems such as lethargy, depression and disturbed sleep patterns. Long hours in the office and lack of outdoor exercise may contribute to light deprivation, as artificial light fails to supply all the colors of the spectrum needed to maintain the body’s physical and chemical equilibrium. Pure white light therapy restores the balance and also boosts vitamin D production. Twenty minutes to an hour of exposure to this white light has a positive. energising effect.

MAGNETO-THERAPY : Magnetotherapy is a ‘battery-charging’ system that uses electromagnetic fields to energies, speed up wound healing, and treat insomnia and lower back pain. (It is not suitable for those with pacemakers, pregnant women or cancer sufferers.) City life depletes the body’s natural magnetism, resulting in slow circulation and lethargy. Research shows that blood circulation is stimulated by magnetic pads that attract electrically charged positive and negative ions in the bloodstream, which in turn improves the absorption of oxygen. Magneto-therapy involves relaxing on a magnetised couch for around 15 minutes. Patients may experience a slight tingling sensation, but nothing more.

 NUTRITION THERAPY : Nutrition therapy encourages optimum health and corrects specific  problems, including allergies, PMS, arthritis,  asthma, eczema, chronic fatigue and migraine, Just as vitamin and mineral deficiencies lead to poor health, food intolerance also stresses the immune system and can  cause full-blown allergy and illness. Nutritionists take a full inventory of your lifestyle, health status and eating habits. Then they test for food intolerance either by taking a blood sample, or by using a specialised machine. Adjusting your diet often means boosting your intake of specific nutrients or giving up certain foods. Avoiding certain foods gives your immune system a chance to recover and tackle other problems.

OSTEOPATHY TREATMENT : Osteopathy treats back and joint pain, aches and strains, sciatica, rheumatism, arthritis, injuries, PMS and asthma. It not only deals with bones, but the tendons, ligaments and muscles that hold them in place and enable them to move. Poor posture and repetitive strain throws this system out of balance, causing injury, restricted mobility and pain. Osteopathy aims to correct the balance by easing everything back into place. Most osteopaths adopt a gentle manipulative approach, beginning each session by checking your posture and areas of  muscular tension. Then they position and support the body through a series of rhythmic movements and deep stretches to improve strength, posture and mobility.

POLARITY THERAPY : Polarity therapy balances health and energy to treat migraine, digestive problems, allergies, back pain and sciatica. Based on the theory that the body is like a living magnet, with energy currents flowing back and forth between positive and negative poles, it is a total balancing system that uses body work, nutrition, exercise and counseling. Part of the initial  counseling involves recording everything you eat and drink for a week to help the therapist gauge your energy balance. Body work is like a combination of osteopathy, reflexology and Indian massage, with firm acupressure and joint manipulation. Dietary suggestions include plenty of fresh fruit and vegetable juices, and detoxing regimes are recommended.

QI GONG (CHI KUNG) : This technique treats stress, boosts energy and maintains mobility and balance. It is an ancient Chinese holistic exercise and meditation system that combines precise movements and breathing techniques. These cleanse the meridians (energy pathways,) so that the vital life force, or chi, can flow freely. The almost balletic sequence of movements look effortless, but they are hard work at first. Qi gong is a discipline that re-educates you about the way you move and breathe. If you preserve, the experts say that you’ll benefit and poise. You won’t  lose weight, but your body shape may even change for the better. You will feel calmer and more stress-free.

REFLEXOLOGY TREATMENT : Reflexology treats digestive problems, constipation, fluid retention, menstrual irregularities, PMS, menopausal symptoms, stress, fatigues, migraine and skin problems. It also maintains health and energy levels. The body’s six major meridians (energy pathways) all end in the feet, so each part of the foot relates to various body zones. The therapist applies firm finger and thumb pressure over the sole and around the heel and ankles to disperse congestion.  You might feel a tingling or slightly sore sensation in the treated area. Most people experience the full benefits of reflexology the day after treatment. 

 SHIATSU TREATMENT : Shiatsu is a Japanese from of acupressure, or acupuncture without needles, which treats  emotional and physical stress, back and shoulder tension, rheumatism, arthritis, digestive problems, migraine, asthma and insomnia. Points along the body’s meridians (energy pathways) are stimulated to clear blockages and balance vital energy flow. Therapists say that this also disperses lactic acid and carbon monoxide that accumulate in muscles, alleviating stiffness and poor circulation. Freeing muscular tension also liberates the skeletal system and internal organs and often prompts emotional release. The massage can be quite vigorous, occasionally painful or extremely gentle.

TRADITIONAL CHINESE MEDICINE : Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) treats skin problems, digestive disorders, menstrual and menopausal problems and chronic fatigue syndrome. TCM. is an ancient tradition encompassing a complete health system, including diet, exercise (such as Tai Chi), acupuncture, and herbal remedies to maintain energy balance and facilitate the circulation of the life force, or chi. Yin and Yang, the fundamental principles of Chinese philosophy, are divided into eight principal  patterns, such as hot and cold, and empty and full. these indicate bodily imbalances underlying disease. Therapists diagnose the imbalance and prescribe the appropriate treatment to re-establish the optimum energy flow and the Yin/Yang balance.

USUI METHOD REIKI : Reiki is beneficial for relaxation, muscular strain, general aches and immune-related conditions such as HIV. A hands-on healing system developed in the mid-1800s by a Japanese doctor of philosophy, Mikao Usui, reiki loosely means the free flow of universal energy, or ki. It is an eclectic system that owes much to Buddhist thought. Practitioners believe they act as conductors, transferring universal energy to the patient via their hands. This energy then has a balancing effect on both body and mind. The practitioner rests his/her hands on key points over the entire head and body of the patient. Treatments can have a deeply calming, relaxing or energising effect, depending on the patient’s needs.

VOICE THERAPY :  Voice therapy helps to dispel stress and encourage self-expression through non-verbal communication. It has proved especially useful in treating autism and learning difficulties. During therapy, sounds are made that are an invaluable means of communication (they can have a far more powerful effect that intellectually charged words). Working on the basis that you don’t  have to be a singer with perfect pitch to use your voice as a satisfying medium for emotional release, the noises include chanting, singing or simply ‘mouth music’ sounds made instinctively to describe or dispel  emotion. The sounds resonate through the entire body and have an inspiring, energising and relaxing effect. 

WATER THERAPY : Water therapy eases muscular tension, joint pain, rheumatism, arthritis, bronchitis and chronic fatigue syndrome. (Avoid this type of treatment if you have heart disease or high blood pressure.) Also known as hydrotherapy, ‘taking the waters’ is an important part of naturopathic medicine dating at least to ancient Greek, Roman and Celtic times. The curative, immune-boosting effect of hot and a old mineral spring baths forms the basis of spa treatments all over the world. The many forms of treatment exploit water in all its forms and include steam rooms and Turkish baths, balneotherapy (total immersion in varying degrees of warm and cold water), contrast bathing, foot baths and thalassotherapy. 

YOGA TECHNIQUES : Yoga is ideal for relaxation, mind and body tuning, and postural and muscular control. Asanas, or postures, are gentle stretches that promote balance, strength, control and flexibility. They work out the entire body, including internal organs, which are massaged by specific movements. Breathing is also integral to yoga. According to the Indian sage Paanjali, who lived over 2000 years ago, there are eight yogic steps to enlightenment. These include moral responsibility, self-discipline and meditation as well as the familiar postures. The many Western yoga techniques concentrate on body conditioning. Power and dynamis yoga, for example, combine aerobic techniques with traditional stretching.

ZERO BALANCING : This technique treats neck and back pain, stress, migraines and sports injuries. It is a combination of hands-on healing and energy balancing that aims to soothe, stretch and balance both physical and mental energies, and to provide mind, body and soul healing. Theoretically, the body has three energy fields: an aura-like background energy: a worldly vertical energy that gives a sense of space; and an internal energy circulation. Physical and emotional trauma can affect these energy circulations and zero balancing clears blockages and eases the flow. Manipulation is bone-deep and involves the entire body. Often this physical manipulation releases emotional memory, which may be the underlying  causes of stress.

 VITAMINS AND MINERALS : Even if your diet is well-balanced and nutritious, the effects of modern living can deplete essential vitamin and mineral reserves. Find the best natural sources of vitamins and minerals and ensure your recommended daily intake (RDI) is correct.

VITAMIN A : Essential for good vision, healthy skin, growth and resistance to infection. It can also be beneficial for acne sufferers. Sources: liver, oily fish, dairy produce and egg yolk. Some beta-carotene (from green fruit, oranges and vegetables such as carrots and spinach) is converted into vitamin A by the body. RDI: 750 mcg, equivalent tone carrot. Exceeding this can cause dry, itchy skin, loss of appetite and nausea.

VITAMIN B1 (THIAMINE) : Vital for energy production and the metabolism of sugar. Deficiencies can cause depression, anxiety, poor appetite, nausea and personality changes. Women on the pill, breast-feeding mothers and those who consume too much sugar and alcohol could be deficient. Sources: meat, fish, nuts, wholegrains, sesame seeds. RDI:  0.8-1.1 mg.

 VITAMIN B2 (RIBOFLAVIN) : Essential for energy production and for healthy skin and eyes. Deficiencies can be detected by mild fatigue and a red ring around the  iris. Sources: milk, cheese, yoghurt, almonds, green vegetables, mushrooms. RDI 1,2- 1,7 mg

VITAMIN B3 (NIACIN) : Necessary for the metabolism of carbohydrates and used medically to lower cholesterol levels. Sources: meat, fish, liver tuna, peanuts.  RDI: 13-19 mg

VITAMIN B6 (PYRIDOXINE) : Needed for the formation of red blood cells and metabolism of protein. Often used to treat PMS, morning sickness and hormonal imbalances. Smoking and eating junk food increases the probability of B6 deficiencies. Sources: meat, poultry, fish, bananas, avocado, soybeans, nuts, whole grains, vegetables. RDI : 0.9 mg-1 mg

VITAMIN B12 (CYANOCOBALAMIN) : Required for the formation of red blood cells, nerve cells and genetic material (DNA). Vitamin B12 also maintains the functioning of the nervous system. Vegans and those who suffer from anaemia can be deficient. Sources: meat, liver, eggs, milk and yeast extract. RDI: 2 mcg

VITAMIN C (ASCORBIC ACID) : Required for healthy bones, teeth and gums, the formation of collagen, and healing and repair of tissues. Vitamin C is also essential for the absorption of iron within the body. Smoking cigarettes depletes vitamin C supplies. Deficiencies can be detected in skin that bruises easily. Sources: citrus fruits, capsicum, broccoli, spinach and cabbage. RDI: 30-40 mg. Excess vitamin C can cause diarrhoea and increase the risk of kidney stones.

 VITAMIN D : Necessary for muscle strength and the balance of calcium in bones and teeth. Malnutrition and lack of daylight can contribute to deficiencies. Sources: milk, margarine, sardines, cod liver oil,  eggs and sunlight. RDI: not specified in Australia due to the available sunlight.

VITAMIN E : Protects tissues from general wear and tear and helps to prevent fats and cholesterol from causing damage to the organs. Sources: seafood, most nuts, seeds and vegetables. RDI: 7-10 mg

CALCIUM : Necessary for strong bones and teeth and to maintain the functioning of the nerves and muscles. Lack of calcium is linked to osteoporosis (bone thinning) Exercising reduces the body’s rate of calcium loss. If you are going through menopause or don’t eat dairy produce, you could be deficient in calcium. Sources: milk, cheese, sardines, beans, green vegetables, RDI: 800 mg

ZINC : Essential for normal growth, healthy skin, mental health and hormone production. Eczema, acne, greasy or dry facial skin are symptoms linked to zinc deficiencies. Coffee and tea drinkers, vegetarians and long-term users of diuretics are susceptible to low levels of zinc. Sources: meat, wholegrains, nuts, pumpkin seeds, eggs, carrots, ginger, beans and lentils. RDI: 12 mg

IRON : Required to manufacture hemoglobin (the pigment in red blood cells that carries oxygen to all parts of the body,) and for energy production. Lack of iron causes fatigues, low energy levels, depression, poor digestion and can be detected by brittle nails, a pale complexion, heavy periods and recurrent thrush. Sources: meat, liver, oysters, wholegrain, nuts, eggs and fortified breakfast cereals. RDI: 15-16 mg

FOLIC ACID : Helps to maintain the nervous system, essential for healthy blood and especially important for child bearing women. Sources: all green leafy vegetables, liver, kidney, avocado, watercress, bran and fortified cereals. RDI: 200 mcg

 IMPROVE INNER HEALTH :

Follow these steps to improve your well being .

BANISH PMS : If you suffer from PMS, eliminate dairy produce form your diet for seven days before your period. Also increase your intake of magnesium, vitamin B6, B complex and beta-carotene. Cut down your intake of salt and caffeine and steer clear of alcohol.

STRONG BACK : Prevent back pain by improving your work station. Ensure your desk ins the correct height and your chair offers the best support. When bending down, always bend form the knees (don’t stoop over). If you have back pain, see an osteopath.

EASE PAIN : When a headache kicks in, try soaking your feet in a bowl of warm water mixed with a teaspoon of cayenne, pepper for 10 minutes. This will draw the blood away form your head down to your feet, relax your body and ease the pain of a headaches.

VITAMIN THERAPY : Increase your intake of bioflavonoids (the chemicals found in lemons, plums, grape-fruits and blackberries) and vitamin C to reduce the appearance of broken capillaries on the skin. These substances strengthen the walls of the capillaries.

MORNING AFTER : Alcohol depletes the body’s vital supply of vitamin B and C. The best hangover cures contain citrus juices which are rich in natural sugars and vitamin C, celery and apple  juice to help rebalance the body, and beetroot to cleanse the kidneys,

ADULT ACNE : A sudden outbreak of adult acne can occur due to hormonal imbalances, often triggered by stress. To treat the condition. Consult an endocrinologist or your doctor for an androgen blood test so that medication can be prescribed.

YEAST PROBLEM : If you suffer form recurrent candida (thrush,) avoid wearing tight clothing and nylon underwear, shower rather than bath, use unperfumed toiletries, and non-biological washing powder, reduce sugar consumption and opt for a yeast-free diet.

HAY FEVER : If you suffer from hay fever, look at ways of avoiding exposure to potential allergens such as pets  and flowers. Increase your intake of kiwi fruit, blackcurrants and citrus fruits to help relieve congestion. They will also have a natural anti-inflammatory effect.

HEALTH ISSUE : Endometriosis, which is linked with long, heavy periods and painful intercourse, affects one in 10 women. Involving the erratic growth of the cells lining the uterus, it can be treated with the pill, anti-inflammatory analgesics or laparoscopic therapy.

PERFECT TIMING : If you’re having an operation, you should ideally have it on or around the time you ovulate. Studies have revealed that women who have operations between days 13 and 21 of their menstrual cycle make a much speedier recovery.

 PROBLEM AND SOLUTION :

[1] What is the most effective way to boost your iron intake ?  Have a fresh juice incorporating spinach or green, leafy vegetables. This is more beneficial to the body than taking iron tablets.

[2] Do you feel bloated after meals?  To aid digestion, try drinking a cup of peppermint tea after you eat.

[3] Can a low-fat diet benefit your looks?  A low-fat diet will keep you in trim and help prevent age spots from developing later in life.

[4] How can you sustain good health?  The experts recommend exposing yourself to at least two hours of natural light a day to maintain optimum health. Incorporate this factor into your exercise regime.

[5] Is it possible to overdose on vitamins?  Always stick to the recommended dose. Excessive intake of some vitamins can be dangerous.

[6] Are your nails prone to breakages?  Make sure you are obtaining enough calcium, iron and zinc form your diet to maintain healthy, strong nails. Good foods to eat include raw vegetables, fresh fruits and dairy produce.

[7] Is there a way to ensure the longevity of vitamin pills?  After you open a bottle of vitamin pills, throw away the ball of cotton wool that comes inside the bottle. It can attract moisture and damage or contaminate the pills.

[8] Do you feel nauseous when traveling?  To ease motion sickness, try eating foods containing ginger.

[9] Is there a quick-fix remedy for an upset stomach?  Drinking a mixture of bicarbonate of soda and water will help to settle your stomach.

[10] How can you treat dry and brittle hair?  Strengthen your hair by increasing your intake of iron and vitamins A and B.

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Feeding Your Skin

June 23, 2009 Anti Aging And Skin Care

If, on the other hand, you subject your body to  all the things we are told not to do (smoking, poor diet, lack of exercise and overload at work), the chances are you’re not going to look as good as you could after a few months. The warnings are unmistakable, but it, is important to remain realistic about one’s lifestyle: there is only so much each of us can do to try and reduce stress levels; apart from recycling and trying to contribute as little as possible to pollution, there’s very little we can do about it, and it is not always easy to give our bodies exactly the fuel that they need. The key is to try to live as vibrantly as possible. Supplement to replace missing nutrients, take time out when you need it and have fun. It’s all about making an effort to live well, because that is your insurance for good health and great skin.

  • Relaxed breathing and elevated concentration levels will help you to lower your heart rate and blood pressure and increase your peace of mind.

THE STRESS INDEX : In chapter one we mentioned that stress can make skin behave badly. For some people it takes severe and prolonged stress to reach the breaking point, while for others it may only take smaller irritations like traffic jams, having to do a presentation, or lack of sleep to induce a physical or emotional outbreak. Short-term stress is beneficial in that it prepares the body for an emergency. However, in the long-term, your body, skin and health start to suffer. Unlike other hormones, cortisol the stress home one does not decrease with age. In a young, healthy body, cortisol levels increase in the morning and drop at night. If you are under prolonged stress, cortisol s continually secreted into the bloodstream. A younger person is more able to move from a stressed  state to relaxed one, whereas with age, this becomes more difficult. Problems arise when the body makes too much cortisol for too long. Effects include inflammation a major contributor to skin ageing, weakening of the immune system and increasing blood sugar levels.

Long-term stress also depresses DHEA, an important  steroid hormone for the skin. High cortisol and low DHEA levels are associated with rapid skin ageing. In order to protect the body from the effects of stress therefore, you need to keep your cortisol levels in check. Doing the following can help:

(1) Eat a diet high in raw and fresh fruits and vegetables. Stick to low glycaemic fruits like citrus fruits (oranges, grapefruit, limes, lemons), deciduous fruits (apples, cherries, peaches, apricots, nectarines, plums, pears, strawberries), kiwifruit and grapes. They help to detox the body, balance hormones and increase levels of potassium which is essential for beautiful skin. 

(2) Watch your vitamin intake. Pantothenic acid, vitamins B6 and C, zine and magnesium support adrenal function and you should get enough of all of them.

THE EFFECTS OF STRESS ON THE SKIN :

 Sallow complexion. Stress sends the body into survival mode by directing most of the blood to the vital organs such as the heart, lungs and brain. This means less blood goes to the skin, which leaves  your looking washed out.

Pimples. Cortisol causes the secretion of androgen, a sex hormone that increase oil production. Excess sebum means clogged pores, which then leads to breakouts.

Rough, dry skin. A restricted blood supply to the skin means the cells renew themselves less quickly, leading to dry, flaky skin.

Inflammation. When your body is stressed it  often releases histamines, which can cause irritation like itchiness, bumps, rashes and hives. A routine  relaxation or meditation session can help r educe these hypersensitive reactions.

  • Relaxed breathing and elevated concentration levels will help you to lower your heat rate and blood pressure and increase your peace of mind.
  • Eat at least five servings of fruit and vegetables per day. wash them thoroughly to remove pesticides.

NOURISHING FROM THE INSIDE OUT :

Good Fast. Fats also transport the fat soluble vitamins A, D, E and K around the body. ‘Bud’ fats are the trans fatty acids found in convenience foods such as highly processed polyunsaturated corn, safflower and sunflower oils, and margarine. They promote heart disease, disrupt the cell walls to lose their capacity to maintain the moisture balance. 

The ‘good’ fats  are the essential fatty acids omega 3, 6 and 9. Omega 3 fats are found in fatty fish (salmon, mackerel, herring, tuna and sardines), walnuts, flax seeds and flaxseed oil. The omega 6 group is found in avocados, nuts and seeds. The omega 3 oils are vitally important to the skin and have great anti-inflammatory properties. (Remember, inflammation is a major cause of skin ageing.) Omega 9 fats are found in extra virgin olive oil. The easiest way to test if you’re getting enough EFAs is a simple skin test. Because the skin is the last organ the oil reaches, dry skin tells you that you’re not getting enough in. After a hot bath, towel   yourself dry and don’t apply moisturizer. If your skin feels dry, you need more EFAs. Ideally, you shouldn’t need a body lotion because your skin is being lubricated from the inside. EFAs are available in capsule form.

The Power Of Protein. Protein is vital for good skin: it contains 25 amino acids the building blocks of the body and is essential to build good, strong cell walls. The best proteins come from animal sources eggs, fish and game meat, and a little from dairy. It is a little more difficult for vegetarians to build beautiful skin, but it is possible. Proteins are also found in dried grains and pulses, like millet, wheat, soy, beans, peas and lentils.

Bright colors. The brighter the colors of your fruits and vegetables, the greater their immune-boosting and antioxidant content. Phytochemicals natural antioxidants that protect the body against degeneration are found in bright fruits and vegetables. They support immunity, stabilize vitamins in skin tissues, protect form illness and premature ageing, act as free radical scavengers and help to smooth and firm the skin. The wider the variety of fresh phytonutrient plants you eat, the better.

Low Sugar.You’ll see it as loss of radiance, sagging, wrinkles, blotchiness, spots and thin skin. Lower Gl foods will help protect your body from blood sugar disorders and insulin resistance syndrome.

 Raw Foods.  The water content is also decreased through cooking. The water found in raw foods is of the highest quality and contains important trace elements, so it’s advisable to eat as many vegetables raw as possible.

Water.  If you don’t drink enough water, your skin will start to look dry and papery and feel tight. Each time you exhale, you are releasing metabolic waste about two large glasses a day. Your kidneys and intestines eliminate another six or so glasses every 24 hours and about another two glasses are released through the pores in your skin. On a hot day, this can triple. You need three to four liters of water a day for optimal health. Don’t wait until you’re thirsty to drink: thirst is a sign that you’re already dehydrated.

Eat Your Way To Great Skin. (1) freshly squeezed vegetable juice, especially celery, carrot, beetroot and wheat grass. (2) Spouts and seeds (3) Red grapes (4) Yoghurt, fermented foods (5) Tomatoes, cruciferous vegetables (6) Garlic, turmeric and ginger (7) Sardines, salmon and fatty fish (8) Soy products, tofu (9) Kelp and seaweed (10) Olive oil (11) Blueberries, cherries (12) Barley grass

Relaxation. Taking time to relax is one of the most important things you can do for your health. Less stress not only means fewer frown lines, but deeper health benefits as well, such as improved breathing and circulation and reduced muscle stress.

Meditation. If you battle to switch off and relax, you may want to try meditation. Research shows that regular meditation can help with complaints like headaches, asthma, PMS and hypertension. The idea behind meditation is to empty the mind of all thoughts by focusing on one particular thought. It may a be difficult initially, but with practice, you’ll find that it becomes easier to slip into a state of calm. Start with five to 10 minutes and increase the time as you feel fit.

(1) Choose a quiet spot where you won’t be interrupted.  (2) Avoid meditating just before or immediately after a meal. A full or growling stomach is a sure form of distraction.  (3) Sit comfortably with your hands resting in your lap or lie down. Chose your eyes. (4) Focus on relaxing one part of your body at a time, starting with your scalp and moving slowly all the way down to your toes. Feel the tension dissolve from each muscle and each limb, including your face, stomach and back.

(5) To prevent thoughts of your ‘To Do’ list or what happened that day at work, focus on one neutral or calming thought. It could be a scene (i.e. the sky), a color (i.e. blue) or a phrase (i.e. ‘I am calm.’).  (6) Let your breathing fall into a natural rhythm. Allow the air to fill your lungs and breathe from the abdomen, not the chest. Inhale through your nose and exhale through your nose and exhale through your mouth. (7) When you are finished, slowly open your eyes and stay quiet for a few more minutes.

The benefits of meditation. (1) Cultivates a state of serenity (2) Regulates blood pressure (3) Activates parasympathetic nervous system, allows muscles to relax and helps regulate breathing (4) An effective tool for coping with stress and pressure (5) Improves concentration.

Breathing. Breathing is linked to our emotions. When we’re tense, our breathing is shallow and hurried; when upset, it’s irregular’ when we’re bored, it’s long and drawn out. By consciously bringing our breathing under control, we can reduce the effects of emotional turbulence,. By refocusing your attention on your breathing, you’re effectively pushing the worries out of your mind, and controlled, deep breathing has been shown to aid digestion, oxygenate the brain, alleviate asthma and bronchitis, improve blood circulation and improve the functioning of the immune say system. 

CAUSES OF PREMATURE AGEING : 

Unstable Blood Sugar Levels. Reduce the amount of carbohydrates in your diet and get enough protein and good fats. Maintain a healthy weight and stop  eating when you are 80% full. Eat small, regular meals.

Poor Detoxification; Sluggish Circulation. Symptoms include a hung-over feeling (even without the alcohol), chronic fatigue, bad breath, migraines, itching skin, skin, allergies, premature photo ageing and pigmentation, joint pains and stiffness, irritable bowel syndrome and chemical sensitivity. Find time to detox, and generally include more healthy food and water in your diet. It’s a good idea to visit a health spa to kick start your detox under supervision. 

Chronic Inflammation. This is caused by deficiencies of vitamin B6, B12 and folate; a diet high in animal fats; deficiencies of bioflavonoids and antioxidants; food additives, as well as NSG and  aspartamine. Increase or reduce these elements as appropriate for your diet.

Impaired Immune System Function: Symptoms include frequent colds, sinusitis, thrush, slow wound healing, recurring bacterial or viral infections. Correct nutrition is essential. Antioxidants, garlic and zinc can help strengthen the immune system.

Prolonged And Severe Stress. This results in excessive cortisol production, which depresses the immune system and can thus negatively affect other hormones. Find activities that relax your mind and body, and engage in these regularly.

 Supplements for a healthy skin. (1) Vitamin A, C and E, selenium and co-enzyme Q 10 (2) The B  group of vitamins (3) Sulphur (MSM/ methyl sulfonyl methane,) a component of cystine that aids in healing and tissue repair. It’s necessary to produce collagen and keratin and is useful in treating acne, eczema and psoriasis. It’s found in fish,  eggs, meat and some fruits and vegetables.  (4) Alpha lipoic acid is a potent antioxidant found in small amounts in animal livers and kidneys, red meat, spinach and potatoes.

  • If a distracting thought enters your mind while you are trying to meditate, acknowledge it and let it go. Think of it as a balloon floating away into the distance.
  • Apples contain minerals such as iron, copper, calcium and  magnesium, as well as natural sugars and vitamin C very good for oily, blemished skin.
  • By avoiding junk foods and sticking to a diet that is rich in power foods such as fresh salmon, raw fruit and vegetables, you will soon notice a difference in the appearance and feel of your skin. 
  • Your skin is 70% water. If you don’t get in your eight glasses a day, your skin can become dry and flaky.
  • Allow yourself regular ‘me’ time to relax and reflect.
  • For total relaxation avoid all other mental stimuli. Within even a couple of minutes you will feel much more clear-headed and rested.

WEEKEND DETOX  :  One way to combat the negative effects this  has on our skin and bodies it to allow for a regular and gentle two-day detox. This gives the body a chance to rest and recharge. After a couple of days of cleansing, you’ll feel and look better and can expect a clearer skin, better digestion, heightened senses and possibly even an improvement in illnesses and stiff joints. Always consult your doctor first if you are pregnant, diabetic, on prescription drugs or suffering from illness. Aim to eat fresh fruits and vegetables and loads of water, avoiding alcohol and caffeine.

(1) Eat as many fresh and washed fruits for breakfast as you like. Go for low Gl, brightly colored fruits like kiwis, grapes, mango, papaya, peaches, berries, strawberries, pears, apples and nectarines.  (2) Have a mid-morning snack of a handful of nuts and green tea, herbal tea or plain water.  (3) For lunch, prepare a power salad containing dark-leaved lettuce,  rocket, tomato, cucumber, cauliflower or broccoli, peppers, grated carrot, avocado, wild herbs, onion, radishes and sprouts. Mix a dressing of extra virgin olive oil, chopped herbs, crushed gralic, lemon juice and balsamic vinegar.  (4) For an afternoon snack, nibble on a handful of sunflower and pumpkin seeds or eat a small carton of plain yoghurt. Sip on a cup of herbal or green tea. (5) Dinner can consist of a freshly steamed portion of bright vegetables such as succulent broccoli or cauliflower, leeks, aubergines, onion, marrow, peppers (capsicum), red cabbage, butternut or squash. Flavour with herbs.

DAILY DETOX : Cleansing from the inside is a very important component if you wish to stay healthy. to help eliminate toxin and fluid build-up, try working the following into your daily routine:

(1) Drink at least eight glasses of filtered or bottled mineral water a day. If you think it’s boring, add a squirt f lemon or lime they both aid in detoxification.  (2) Swap your morning cup of coffee for green tea. It’s packed with antioxidants and is detoxifying.  (3) Avoid alcohol. It contains acetaldehyde, which causes the skin to age faster and is also high in  empty calories. Hard liquors like whisky, vodka and gin raise insulin levels. However, dry white and red wine do have some antioxidant qualities and may have a beneficial effect; but limit your intake to one or two glasses a day. (4) Increase your fruit and vegetable intake. Loaded with fibre and water, they will help to keep your bowels healthy. (5) Papaya and pineapple are high in anti-inflammatories and enzymes and aid digestion.

HOME SPA : A spa session can be very soothing and revitalizing for the skin as well as for the mind and body. While not everyone can afford the time or money for regular professional pampering, it is fortunately very easy to do a little DIY beauty at home. Try to set aside an afternoon when you’re unlikely to be disturbed and give yourself three hours of ‘me’ time. Spend the time treating your face to a through cleanse and gentle exfoliation, nourishing mask and stimulating massage with your fingertips. Give your body the same attention wit an invigorating exfoliating scrub followed by a lathering of rich body lotion. As hands and feet are so often neglected, it’s also a good time to give yourself a mini manicure and pedicure.

Facial Tips: (1) To create your own ’steamer’, fill a large bowl with very hot water. Hold your head about 15 inches above the water and create tent by draping a towel over your head and shoulders and the bowl. Stay like this for five to 10 minutes. Steaming liquifies the impurities trapped in your pores and helps get rid of blackheads. Avoid this if you’re prone to redness or suffer from broken capillaries. (2) Choose a mask according to your skin type. If your skin is dry, go for a rich, hydrating product. If it’s oily, a clay-based deep-cleansing mask will do the trick.  (3) You should aim for a salon facial every six week or a homer regime of gentle exfoliation and a nourishing mask once a week.(4) Always make sure your therapist knows your skin’s history. If it’s your first time at a salon, you should be required to fill out a detailed client card. (5) The massage action stimulates and oxygenates the skin; the reason skin glows after a facial. (6) A facial is also great for reducing stress levels. It forces you to take some time out and relax.

  • To improve your health, eat fresh vegetables and fruits, as well as enough protein and carbohydrates. A vitamin supplement, at least eight glasses of water a day and regular exercise will keep skin glowing.
  • Your body needs be treated to a regular detox, but there’s no need to starve yourself. Brightly colored fruits and vegetables can be tossed into a salad for a tasty, but healthy lunch.
  • Fresh fruit and vegetables are an instant source of vitamins, fibre, enzymes and antioxidants.
  • A massage is therapeutic and very relaxing. There are various methods that greatly benefit mind and body.

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Taking Care Of Your Body

June 22, 2009 Anti Aging And Skin Care

But  to feel good in your skin, you need to shower as much attention on your body as you do on your face protecting and caring for the skin, which reacts and changes just as facial skin does. It’s also a good idea to listen to your body. Aching muscles, tiredness and stiff joints may be an indication that your body is run down and needs attention. A healthy diet and a fitness regime are essential to keep in shape, but caring for your body is just as much about keeping the skin smooth and glowing with energy. Taking a brisk walk, treating yourself to a long bath or a massage, regular exfoliation, nourishing lotions, keeping an eye on posture, proper breathing and taking time to relax all have a direct impact on your body and its appearance. In this chapter we look at how to keep the body’s skin smooth, supple and healthy.

  • Detoxifying, firming body wraps relieve water retention, making the skin appear smoother. The effect lasts about 8-10 hours.

 BODY BASICS :

EXFOLIATION : Dry skin is simply the accumulation of dead skin cells. By removing them through exfoliation, skin looks smoother and more youthful; it also helps prevent ingrown hairs. You can either use an exfoliating scrub or a body brush, rubbing gently in a circular motion, towards the heart.

MOISTURIZING : The skin on your body is generally drier than the skin on your face, so daily moisturizing is essential. When choosing a product, remember that the heavier the consistency, the more moisturizing it is. If you suffer form spots on your chest or back, look for a body lotion that contains salicylic acid. Many lotions also contain AHAs retinal, antioxidants and sunscreens, so you really can give your body the same attention as you do your face. Apply it immediately after bathing to seal in the moisture.

HAIR REMOVAL :  Unwanted hair can be removed in a variety of ways depending on your time and pain threshold! And, various lotions can be applied after your method of hair removal to inhibit regrowth.

1. Depilatories are creams and lotions that contain chemicals to dissolve hair. They can irritate the skin whose outer layer is made of a keratin protein similar to that of hair. They are also very alkaline and so can disturb the skin’s natural pH balance. Always do a patch test first, and never leave on longer than instructed.

2.  Shaving is quick and convenient in the bath or shower. First wash the area with warm water to avoid razor burn and soften the hairs. For minimal irritation, change the blades regularly and use the fewest possible number of strokes. Shaving creams, gels and lotions provide a layer of protection by increasing lubrication so the blade glides smoothly. Most of them also contain soothing and moisturizing ingredients. If you do suffer skin sensitivity, do a patch test before using one of these products. Despite popular belief, shaving does not make the hair grow back thicker it’s merely the blunt edge as it grows out that makes it appear a little thicker.

3. Waxing pulls the hair out from the root. Hairs grow back slower than  with shaving and become finer with repeated use. For optimal results, hair needs to be quite long and the process can cause ingrown hairs, so exfoliate the area well.

4. Electrolysis when it is performed properly, can permanently remove unwanted hair. Electrical impulses are directed into hair follicles where they shock the hair’s root and inhibit growth. The procedure is time-consuming and expensive because multiple treatments are required. It can also be quite painful, but an anaesthetic cream can be used to ease any discomfort. It’s important to have it done by a professional as it can leave brown marks or scars if done incorrectly.

5. Laser hair removal temporarily inactivates the hair follicle. Once the follicle is destroyed, it usually stops producing hair. As with electrolysis, more than one treatment is required and it’s the most expensive procedure. A session leaves the area free of hair for four to six weeks. Eventually hair becomes finer or disappears altogether.

Why do ingrown hairs form? An ingrown hair is a hair that has grown sideways, forcing the tip of he hair into the follicle wall. It can also occur if the hair is too weak to push through the follicle. Regular exfoliation will help reduce the occurrence, while a cream containing benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid can be dabbed on to clear it up.

  • Shoving, waxing or depilatories….. how you remove unwanted hair depends on personal preference and your pain threshold.

ALL ABOUT CELLULITE : Cellulite is the dimpling of the fatty tissue under the skin and anyone can have it, no matter how over or underweight you are. Some experts believe it’s a result of genetic, circulatory and metabolic factors, and say there are ways to at least improve its appearance. Others say it’s purely an accumulation of fat and no amount of body brushing or expensive potions will disperse it. Another line of thinking is that it’s a bold-up of fat and toxins like lymphatic fluids, acidic waste and water, due to bad habits such as a sedentary lifestyle, poor diet, alcohol and smoking. This school of thought advocates massage or some other form of stimulation to flush out the nasty stuff.

The most accepted explanation is that cellulite is a woman’s condition that’s related to oestrogen, the female hormone, which kicks in at puberty and creates curves by enlarging the fat cells, especially on the hips and thighs. The appearance of cellulite is caused by the way a woman’s fat cells are packaged underneath the skin: standing chambers of fat separated by fibrous membranes. As we age, the connective tissue between these chambers thickens causing a matters-like effect. As the skin things and fat deposits increase, so the ‘mattress’ is more exposed. Although it’s difficult to get rid of cellulite completely, there are four types of cellulite completely, there are four types of treatments that have shown varying degrees of success. 

(1) Creams and lotions are being produced in the thousands, with all sorts of claims to reduce and remove cellulite. The ingredients in these creams, such as caffeine, avocado oil, seaweed and yeast extracts, may work temporarily to some extent, but they would need to be used continually for a permanent effect. A number of women report an improvement in cellulite using over-the-counter creams, but at the same time, many do not. Most of them do help to improve the texture and tone of the surface  of the skin.

(2) Mechanical massage like Ender-mologie, a suction massage treatment, has been shown to minimize cellulite. It works by pulling the skin upwards into a set of rollers under a low-pressure vacuum. This is thought to stretch the vertical connective tissue fibres, resulting in a smoother appearance of the skin. Manual massages such as lymphatic drainage can also help.

(3) Diet, it seems, does not have a direct impact on the formation of cellulite, although crash dieting is a sure way to aggravate cellulite. Every time you restrict calories your body stores fat and reduces muscle and the less muscle you have, the worse your cellulite will be. When you start eating again, it’s more likely your body will gain the weight back as inactive fat, rather than active muscle. A balanced diet and six small meals a day is recommended for general health benefits. Eat the smallest meal in the evening when your metabolism and ability to burn calories is at its lowest. Minimize intake of fatty and refined foods, sugar, dairy, alcohol, caffeine and red meat.

(4) Exercise can also play a role in reducing the appearance of cellulite as it improves your circulation, which in turn burns fat and helps strengthen the connective tissue structure under the skin. The effects of exercise, however, will vary from person to person.

VEIN REMOVAL :

Spider veins are small, dilated blood vessels that appear red or blue under the skin. Until recently, most spider leg veins were treated with sclerotherapy, which involves injecting a solution directly into the vein, causing it to close up and disappear within a few weeks. Though a successful treatment, side effects include skin ulceration, the formation of very fine blood vessels that appear as pink patches, brown staining of the skin, and, rarely, blood clots or allergies to the solution. Laser technology now allows dermatologists to zap these veins with good results. Several sessions of 10 to 15 minutes each at one to two month intervals are needed in order for the damaged blood vessels to be cleared away by the body’s immune system.

Varicose veins are much thicker than spider veins and have a purplish tinge. They usually occur on the legs and are caused by a malfunction of the vein’s valves, which can be stretched during pregnancy, or as a result of obesity, blood clots or even a genetic defect. If the valve can’t close normally, the blood flows backwards and pools in the vein. There are various ways of treating varicose veins. A saline solution can be injected to restrict expansion of the vein, the vein can be closed at the valve or, in severe cases, the vein can be removed completely. New procedures include a laser fibre that is inserted like a catheter directly into the damaged vein; the laser energy heats and seals the vein from within. Another treatment option uses radio-frequency technology to destroy the vein by heating it form within.

  • If you have a tendency to develop leg veins, avoid standing for long periods, wear support hose for varicose veins and exercise regularly. Exercise tones the calf muscles which help propel the blood back to the heart, thus avoiding pooling in the lower legs.

STRETCH MARKS : If skin is seriously overstretched, such as when the body grow faster than the skin can handle (during pregnancy, sudden weight gain, quick muscle-building), collagen fibres in the middle layer can rupture and deep scars can be seen through the epidermis. These are commonly known as stretch marks. While they do fade with time, there is little you can do to get rid of them altogether. Microdermabrasion, laser resurfacing and intense pulsed light treatments may help. Generally, the longer you’ve had them, the less chance there is of reducing them. Some people swear by vitamin E. It’s a good idea to apply vitamin E throughout a pregnancy or if you are trying to lose weight, as it helps keep the skin supple and may therefore help reduce the incidence of stretch marks. Fake tan can help disguise them.

BATH TIME : The heat of a bath helps to open pores and relieve congestion. If your suffer from spider veins, broken capillaries or flush easily, avoid very hot baths and jacuzzis.

Climb into the bath and take a few moments to unwind. Start by relaxing your neck muscles, then your shoulders, arms, chest, back, tummy, hips, thighs, knees and finally, your feet.

Once you’ve soaked (keep it to 15 minutes more than that and your skin will become puffy), wash by rubbing with long, smooth strokes towards the heart. 

Why don’t men get cellulite? There are a few reasons  why women are the unlucky recipients of the orange peel effect. Firstly, the basis of cellulite is believed to be the female  hormone, oestrogen. Secondly, fat is distributed differently in men and women.  In women, it’s stored mainly in the buttocks and thighs where cellulite is generally located and in men in the belly. Thirdly, men and women fat sacs are packed differently in the skin. A woman’s fat cells are standing chambers with the connective ‘ropes’ pointing up towards the surface, thus creating the dimple-like effect. Men fat sacs, on the other hand, lie horizontally. The connective tissue is also horizontal and therefore doesn’t show on the surface.

STRAIGHTEN  UP : No matter what your shape or size, standing up straight will make you look and feel better. In fact, you can look as though you’ve lost five pounds simply by standing and walking correctly.

Not only does a good posture help to make you look stronger, taller and more graceful, it is also very good for your health as it is also very good for  your health as it lessens the chances of back and neck problems, weak stomach muscles, tiredness and poor circulation.

To determine if your posture is good, stand as you usually do, with your heels against a wall. Your calves, buttocks, shoulders and the back of your head should touch the wall and you should touch the wall and you should just be able to slip your hand between the small of your back and the wall. If, after doing this little test, your decide that your posture is not what it should be, then here’s what you can do to improve it:

(1) When you’re sitting, pull your navel in towards your spine and stretch the torso so it’s upright. 

(2) When standing for long periods of time, remember to check that your abdominal muscles are pulled in tight towards your spine, your hips are tilted slightly forward and your knees are relaxed.

(3) Exercise is a good way to improve your posture. Make sure you are doing exercises correctly, especially if it involves equipment at a gym.

(4) If you spend a lot of time sitting at a desk, find a chair that supports your lower back and keep your feet flat on the floor.

(5) To strengthen our back, squeeze your shoulder blades together and hold for 10 seconds. Repeat 10 times. Do this regularly throughout the day.

  • Dry body brushing is one of the cheapest and most effective methods of stimulating circulation, which is essential for normal body functioning. If your circulation is impaired, insufficient oxygen and nutrients are delivered to the cells, toxins are not removed efficiently and lymph fluid is not drained correctly. All this encourages fat and toxin build-up. When body brushing, brush firmly towards the heart, but be careful if you have any problem skin conditions.
  • Vitamin E is a perennial skincare favourite and many swear by its healing properties, particularly with regards to preventing and treating stretch marks. 

 

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Smoothing The Surface

June 20, 2009 Anti Aging And Skin Care

 Dramatic results can be achieved with face-lifts and reshaping, but there are less-invasive rejuvenating techniques like freezing, filling and polishing. While one needs to accept the inevitable changes that come with age, there is no reason why one should not make use of the sophisticated cosmetic procedures and techniques available, There are so many options, however, that you will need to do some homework. All surgery carries some risk and even less-invasive techniques can have side-effects. Use reputable, certified professionals. Get recommendations of contact the dermatological or plastic surgeons association in your country. Know what can and can’t be improved and allow for recovery time. There are quick procedures such as ‘lunch-time peels’, while other treatments leave your skin red and inflamed for a few days and will require some time off.

Whatever method you choose to rejuvenate your face, you should aim to  create natural-looking results. Always consult a registered dermatologist or plastic surgeon, and be realistic about what the procedures can and cannot achieve.

There are three types of wrinkles. Static wrinkles are with you all the time, even when your face is at rest. Dynamic wrinkles are created by your facial expressions, and folds are lines that develop when the skin loses its youthful elasticity and begins to sag. Examples of the latter include droopy eyebrows, bags below the eyes, jowls and nasolabial folds (between the corners of your mouth and the sides of the nose). Various non-invasive techniques can help to improve these and they can be used in conjunction with surgery.

FREEZERS : Botox has become the treatment of choice to get rid of expression lines those that from when your frown, smile or laugh. Botox is a neurotoxin produced form the botulinum bacteria. When injected into a muscle, it acts as a nerve impulse blocker, temporarily paralyzing the muscles and so keeping them from contracting.

Because it ‘freezes’ the expression muscles, your ability to move the muscle temporarily disappears along with the wrinkles. Botox is most effective on frown lines, forehead lines and crow’s feet (on the outer corners of the eyes). The procedure is painless just a needle prick, but a topical anaesthetic cream can be used if the client prefers or if multiple sites are planned. The procedure takes about 10 minutes and the effect takes four days to a week to kick in. It lasts from three to six  months and must be repeated to maintain results. Injections can cause redness and swelling at the injection site and it’s advisable not to do anything too strenuous on the day of treatment; nonetheless you can go about your business almost immediately. In rare cases, Botox injections too close to the eyelid  muscles can cause the eye area to droop temporarily.

FILLERS : Soft-fillers are injected into the skin to fill lines and wrinkles and build or plump up areas like the lips and cheeks. There are temporary and permanent fillers as well as exogenous (foreign substances such as collagen) and autologous (one’s own tissue or fat) implants. The fat-injection procedure involves extracting fat cells from the patient’s abdomen, thighs, but tocks or elsewhere, and re-injecting them beneath the facial skin. This method is usually used to fill in cheeks and lips or to fill laugh lines between the nose and mouth or on the  forehead. As the fat is taken from the person’s own body, there is no reaction because the immune system immediately recognizes the tissue.

The disadvantages of foreign collagen implants (extracted from cow skin or a human cadaver) are that they only last for two to six months, and that skin testing is required  in order to avoid possible allergic reactions. 

The more popular temporary filling method is with hyaluronic acid (such as Restylane, Hylaform,  Perlane). Hyaluronic acid is a substance that occurs naturally in the skin, so allergic reactions are rare. Injected into the skin in tiny amounts with a very thin needle, the gel adds natural volume under the wrinkle. The product is biodegradable and so will gradually be absorbed. As the gel breaks down, water takes its place and when it is totally absorbed, the gel disappears unnoticed from the body. The procedure takes up to half an hour.

After the treatment you could experience some swelling, tenderness and redness, but these symptoms will disappear in two to four days. How long the effect lasts depends on the individual, but it is generally effective for up to six months after lip augmentation, and up to 12 months after facial contouring.

Other filler materials being used include Fibril, a gelatin powder compound that’s mixed with the patient’s own blood and is injected to plump up the skin; a threadlike material that is implanted beneath the skin to add soft-tissue support; and Zyderm (a bovine collagen) and Zyplast (a cross-linked form of collagen), which are used to improve the appearance of wrinkles, scars and to add volume to the lips. Injectable filers are not permanent and the body will eventually process the injected material. How long it lasts differs  from person to person.

MICRODERMABRASION : Often referred to as the ‘lunch-time peel’, microdermabrasion is a skin polishing technique that uses microparticles to abrade and rub off the top skin layer, removing the particles of dead skin to give it a smoother appearance. The operator uses a hand held device that blasts fine particles of sand-like crystals (aluminum oxide or table salt) against the skin and vacuums away the used crystals, dirt and dead surface skin. It takes only 20 to 30 minutes for a full-face treatment and can also be used on the neck and chest. 

There may be mild redness, which can be covered up with makeup and fads after a couple of hours. This procedure is not painful (there may be a slight tingling) and won’t lighten or darken black skin as some strong exfoliating treatments do. It’s lighten or darken black skin as some strong exfoliating treatments do. It’s recommended for smoothing away roughness, fine lines, sun-damaged or pigmented skin, age spots, scarring from acne, accidents or previous surgery and even precancerous growths. Microdermabrasion exfoliates skin faster and more  efficiently than any salon facial and penetrates the skin more deeply than a glycolic acid peel. It is not recommended as a treatment for crow’s feet because, if used too close to the eyes, the crystals can cause eye irritation and the delicate eyelid skin can be damaged by the machine’s suction. 

INTENSE PULSED LIGHT THERAPY (IPL) : A fairly new, convenient  and thus increasingly popular alternative to laser skin resurfacing and chemical peeling is the use of intense pulsed light. With this type of therapy, an intensive light source is directed towards the surface of the skin. It spreads in all directions and there is no danger of burning or scarring as there is with regular laser.

This therapy is particularly effective for rejuvenating the skin, not just superficially but in the deeper levels, too. The light pulses are adjustable in wavelength and duration so that a variety of tasks can be performed and objectives achieved.

Intense pulsed light therapy helps to improve redness (it’s particularly effective in the treatment of rosacea); reduce broken capillaries, brown spots, UV damage, fine wrinkles and large pores. It can even out skin tone and firm the skin. One of its biggest advantages is that  there is no down time. Each treatment takes approximately 20 minutes and patients can return to their daily activities immediately afterwards. There is also minimal discomfort no anaesthesia or topical  anaesthetic cream is needed.

This, coupled with an absence of scars and ease of treatment, makes an attractive number of advantages over laser skin resurfacing , chmeical peeling, or microdermabrasion. Aftercare is customized to each partient’s individual skin sensitivity. This rejuvenation technology is certainly cutting edge and very exciting. As with all of these procedures, it must only  be administered by a skilled and qualified professional and a series of treatment is recommended to get the best possible results.

CHEMICAL SKIN PEELS : These peel use a chemical  solution to smooth the texture of the skin by removing the damaged outer layers. There are various kinds available. Alpha hydroxyl acids such as glycolic, lactic or fruit acids are usually the mildest of the formulas. They can be used to remove the top layer of skin tone and uneven pigmentation and smooth acne scars. They also stimulate cell metabolism, increasing the skin’s natural functions. The process takes about 10 minutes. The cons: it can irritate the skin, and you have to undergo a series of treatments to reap the benefits.

Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is most commonly used for medium-depth peeling to smooth out fine surface wrinkles, blemishes and uneven pigmentation problems. The treatment takes 10 to 15 minutes and can be used on the neck and body. Although healing is quicker than a phenol peel, the results are usually less dramatic and not as long lasting. Repeated treatments may be needed to maintain results.

Phenol is the strongest of the chemical solutions and is used mainly to treat patients with deep wrinkles, sun-damaged skin or precancerous growths on the face. It’s more suitable for fair skins as there is a high risk of loss of pigment. A full-face treatment may take  an hour or more.

Recovery is slow, complete healing sometimes taking several months. Although  the results are dramatic and can last for decades, your skin will never tan again and extreme caution must be taken in the sun.

LASER RESURFACING : Laser facial resurfacing (laser peeling) can be used to smooth skin at almost any age. The top layer of skin is peeled away while the collagen underneath is thickened and reformed. When your skin heals, it looks brighter and plumper. Laser works well on sun-damaged skin, brown spots, fine lines and veins. It doesn’t improve sagging and so is often recommended in conjunction with a face-lift. Laser resurfacing works by directing an intense beam of laser light back and forth over the area being treated. Each pass of the light vaporizes the upper layers of damaged skin and causes the skin to contract. This results in tightening of the collagen and elastic fibres of the dermis, producing a new skin layer that is tighter, firmer and more youthful looking. There are many types of lasers: CO2 and erbium are among the more popular ones. The CO2 is the most aggressive (and effective) treatment for skin that is severely aged or scarred. It is essentially a powerful beam of light that vaporizes the top layers of the skin on contact, prompting it to rebuild itself from the bottom up. It can take from 10 minutes to more than an hour, and must always be performed by a qualified surgeon.

Recovery takes about 10 days, during which time the skin is very swollen, raw and oozing. Crusts form that will eventually fall off. There will be pain, similar to that of severe sunburn, for a few days. Because of the risk of hyper pigmentation, this type of laser treatment is not recommended for darker skin.

The erbium also vaporizes the outer layers of skin, but it resurfaces with less heat, so healing takes place in about a week, with most redness fading within 7-14 days. This type of laser is good for wrinkles, acne scars, sun damage, and irregular pigmentation, but not quite as effective as the CO2. It is, however, much gentler, has fewer side effects, requires a shorter recovery period and can be used on dark skins.

 IS SURGERY FOR YOU ? There is no doubt that a face-lift or liposculpture can make an enormous difference not only to a person’s face, but also to their self-esteem. If you choose plastic surgery, then follow this advice:  (1) Be sure of your decision. (2) Go to a qualified and reputable  surgeon with whom you feel comfortable.  (3) Be realistic in your expectations. Resurfacing and Botox will improve the over all appearance of your skin’s quality; surgery deals with skin quantity and can be used to elevate and reshape sagging contours.  (4) Get clear answers to all your questions. (5) Be aware of the risks associated with surgery.  (6) Know the full cost and be aware of all the implications before you commit.  (7) Look after your face and body prior to surgery and follow all post-operative instructions.

  • Botox injections have become a popular lunch-time fix; other than the possibility of some redness and very slight swelling at the site, patients can immediately resume their activities.
  • Invasive rejuvenation treatments can tax the body. Regard them as you would minor surgery and allow your system enough time to recuperate.
  • All invasive skincare procedures carry some risk. It is vital to consult a registered skincare professional and ensure you are getting the right treatment for your particular concern.
  • IPL is a fairly recent skin rejuvenation technique that is quick, painless and without any of the nasty side-effects that accompany the other, more invasive procedures.
  • Age, gravity, sun exposure, smoking and stress changes the way a face looks. Creases form and it begins to lose its youthful definition.

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Problem Skin

June 19, 2009 Anti Aging And Skin Care

 Most of us are born with perfect skin. While a lucky few manage to maintain a clear complexion over the years, most of he rest have experienced a few unwanted changes. For some it may  be small irritations such as breakouts, dark patches after a pregnancy or enlarged pores. For others, it may be a more severe skin condition, like eczema or acne. Everyone experiences marks and blemishes on their skin at some point. Some are permanent, others tend to come and go. Most will be of no importance, while some may require a professional opinion. While you can never regain the skin you were born with, there are many things you can do to improve your lot and treat a problem. The key is getting to know and understand your skin, so that you are able to identify what needs to be done. Make a habit of checking your skin regularly. If you tend to problem skin, be aware of your diet and lifestyle choices they may well be the underlying cause. Also realize and accept that your skin is constantly changing and that you may need to adapt your skincare routine accordingly. 

ALL ABOUT ACNE: Age is not a sure guarantee against pimples or acne. In fact, many people only experience acne for the first time in their adult years; recent studies show that 40-50% of adults between the ages of 20-40 are diagnosed with low-grade persistent acne.

The exact cause of acne cannot be pinpointed. A number of factors seem to have an effect, including genetics, hormones, physiology, stress and the use of certain cosmetics. This type of acne ranges from a few isolated spots to severe breakouts, which can lace unsightly scars. Acne results when the sebaceous (oil) glands secrete too much sebum into the hair follicle, which is lined with dead cells. The combination of excess sebum and dead cells clog up the pores, which are the pipelines for the natural flow of oil to the skin’s surface. As a result bacteria build up, the area becomes inflamed, and spots or pimples may appear. Acne most commonly occurs where the sebaceous glands are most active on the face, neck, chest and back. A variety of blemishes result:

  • Blackheads are similar to white-hands, except the blocked material protrudes above the skin, dilating the pore. The black color is due to the oxidization process that occurs within the follicle.
  • Papules are inflammations under the skin. When the sebum build-up becomes too much, the follicle expands and eventually bursts, releasing the sebum and dead cell build-up onto the surface of the skin. White blood cells then attack this material, forming pus, and a pustule results.
  • Cysts occur when inflammation spreads deep into the skin. To contain it, the cells automatically form a fibrous capsule around it. Cysts can continue to grow slowly under the skin and usually need to be surgically removed.
  • Scars result when damaged skin tries to heal itself. Naturally, scars can be severely aggravated by picking or squeezing.

WHAT CAUSES ACNE ?

Hormones. Throughout your life, hormones will play a very important role in determining the ups and downs of your skin. Oestrogen is an important skin regulator, and an excess of male hormones can cause acne. Men and women both produce male hormones (androgne and testosterone) and female hormones (oestrogen and progesterone) only the ratio of these hormones differ between the sexes. When the levels of androgen increase during puberty, ovulation, menstruation and childbirth, for example the skin produces more oil and acne can result.

Diet. There is not enough evidence to suggest that acne and diet are related, but some people find that certain foods make their acne worse. Common culprits include chocolate, caffeine, nuts, high-fat and spicy foods, citrus fruits, refined foods, dairy products, and foods with a high iodide content, such as shellfish. Certain medications can also cause a flare-up.

Stress. Stress triggers the adrenal glands to release the hormone cortisol, which increases the secretion of sebum. Stress inducers include skimping on sleep skipping meals and ingesting too much caffeine. All these factors trigger the adrenaline in  your body to mobilize stored nutrients, which in turn slows down natural exfoliation processes. The remedy? Get enough sleep, follow a balanced diet, drink plenty of water, and cut down on caffeine and high-fat foods. In severe cases or if there is no change, consult a skincare professional. 

TREATING ACNE-PRONE SKIN : 1. A regular purifying and cleansing routine will help remove excess sebum on the skin’s surface, a breeding ground for bacteria. Try using a daily gentle antibacterial wash to help cleanse bacteria from the skin, combined with a beta hydroxy acid such as salicylic acid, which stimulates the skin’s natural exfoliation process. As dead cells become ‘unstuck’, there is less chance of clogged pores. Salicylic acid also helps to curb an oily shine.

 2. Even oily skin needs daily moisture. If you skin is very oily, choose a lightweight lotion to replace moisture without adding oil. Make sure the product you buy is oil-free or noncomedogenic, which means it won’t block pores. If you wear make-up look out for foundations that ‘mattify’ or control oil, as they will help eliminate shine.

3. Remember that fingers dipped into shared products increase the risk of contamination. If possible, opt for products that are specially sealed or have pump dispensers.

4. Benzoyl peroxide is a fast-zapping, nonprescription ingredient that is particularly effective at speeding up the drying up and peeling of spots. It is available in varying strengths and should be introduced at low concentrations as it can be very drying and may cause allergies.

5. If your acne doesn’t respond to nonprescription  remedies (give it at least six weeks), it’s best to go for a medical diagnosis with a dermatologist who can prescribe a stronger formulation. Antibiotics can be taken orally (erythromycin and tetracycline are commonly used) or applied topically. The two other proven acne treatments are Retin-A and Roaccutane. Retin-A is an imitation of retinoic acid, the naturally occurring from of vitamin A found in the skin. Its main action is keratolytic, which means it acts as a peeling agent that loosens dead surface cells. Retin-A is a very powerful drug that only needs to be applied to the acne areas in very small doses. The problem is that retinoic acid can be irritating and drying, and causes increased sensitivity to the sun and other products applied to the skin. Retinoid isotretinoin (Roaccutane) is a synthetic version of vitamin A that’s taken orally once or twice a day for four months. It’s extremely effects include dryness and increased skin sensitivity. Very strict birth control needs to be practiced while taking Roaccutane as it can cause major birth defects.

FACT OR FICTION ?       

Chocolate and fatty foods cause acne. There is no scientific evidence to indicate that diet plays a determining role. The ‘westernized’ diet is high in preservatives, colorants the most acne-prone populations. The Asian  and Mediterranean populations, however generally eat more good fatty acids and far less processed foods. Although acne is less common in these areas, the role of genetic factors is unclear.

Acne is due to poor hygiene. The blackheads we see are a result of an oxidization process that turn the sebum and dead cells black in color. It is not dirt. In fact, over cleansing can aggravate acne.

Sunlight improves acne. The sun can seem to improve the complexion, but it also suppresses the immune system. That is why acne often seems to get worse a few weeks after sun exposure. The sun also stimulates sebum secretion. It is more advisable to wear an oil free sunscreen.

Don’t be tempted to remove skin impurities such as blackheads by harsh squeezing or without preparing your skin first.

Did You Know ? Skin that is irritated by a cleanser or moisturizer reacts by forming a protective layer by adhering more skin cells onto the surface.

COMMON PROBLEMS :

ROSACEA:  Rosacea is often referred to as ‘acne rosacea’ but is not the same as acne. Characterized y red and inflamed skin, particularly on the cheeks, nose, forehead and chin, it may begin as a tendency to  blush or flush easily and progresses to persistent redness. Small blood vessels and tiny pimples may also occur. It’s most common in women between the ages of 30 and 50 and some cases have been associated with menopause. The exact cause is unknown, although it’s  believed to be due to a disorder of the blood vessels, which become oversensitive to stimulation. Heat and sunlight  may aggravate it as they stimulate the release of chemicals that encourage the blood vessels to enlarge. Rosacea is not caused by excessive alcohol, but can be aggravated by it as alcohol causes the blood vessels to dilate. Severe cases are sometimes accompanied by burning of the eyes. Treatment includes oral and topical antibiotics and avoiding extreme temperatures and spicy foods. Cortisone creams may reduce the redness of rosacea, however, they must only be used under the supervision of a dermatologist and for longer that two weeks at a time as they can thin the skin. Red wine, oranges and caffeine may also aggravate rosacea, as do scrubbing or rubbing the face and irritating facial products. It can become worse without treatment.

ECZEMA : Eczema, also called dermatitis, describes a family of itchy, red skin conditions. A-topic eczema is an illness (usually an allergy) that runs in the family. It is the most common from of eczema and is characterized by chronic dryness, redness, chapping and itching. It usually appears first during childhood and most patients recover before the age of 25, although some live with it their entire lives. generally runs in families who also suffer from other allergies such as hay fever and ashma. In teens and young adults, the spots usually break out where the elbow bends, on the backs of the knees, ankles, wrists, and on the face, neck and upper chest. It’s important not to scratch as this can lead to infection. A-topic eczema can be partly relieved by avoiding irritants like feathers and wool blankets; dogs, birds and cats; harsh detergents; and certain foods such as wheat, dairy and chocolate. Stress can also exacerbate the condition. Some over-the-counter products can relieve the itching, while topical steroid creams help soothe and calm the skin. It’s best to consult a dermatologist for the correct diagnosis and treatment.

PSORIASIS : This chronic skin disease is caused by an overproduction of cells in the epidermis and ineffective desquamation (shedding of these cells), the combination of which causes cells to accumulate and form red, scaly patches, especially around the elbows, knees, and scalp. Psoriasis tends to run in families and is not contagious. Mild or average cases can be treated with a prescription cream or lotion. If it’s severe, your dermatologist may prescribe medication light therapy. Although psoriasis can be contained, it’s unlikely to be permanently cured.

VITILIGO : This skin disease manifests as white patches on the surface of the skin. The patches are due to a loss of pigment, but dermatologists are not entirely sure what causes this.

Vitiligo usually appears on the face, lips, hands, arms, legs and genital areas, but can appear anywhere on the body. The amount of color a person loses varies: people with a light-colored skin usually see the difference between patches of vitiligo and tanned skin in summer. For people with darker skin, vitiligo is quite visible all year round.

The most common way to treat it is with light therapy and medicine. It is also possible to hide the marks by using special cosmetic camouflage products. Very often, such products are also water resistant.

PIGMENTATION : Unbalanced pigmentation is very common and may be a result of years of sun-worshipping or skin trauma.  As discussed previously, the skin has pigment-producing cells called melanocytes that determine skin tone. Dark skins have larger melanin granules, which means more in-built protection, and so are more resistant to sun damage. Fairer skins have less melanin and thus are more likely to develop brown patches from sun exposure. However, skin with more melanin tends to have more hyper pigmentation related to scarring.

While pigmentation can largely be avoided by staying out of the sun, many women experience hyper pigmentation during pregnancy due to hormone activity, even if they avoid the sun. Chloasma or the ‘mask of pregnancy’ consists of brown patches that appear on the forehead, cheeks and above the lip.  A variety of topical treatments is available that can lighten blemishes, and chemical skin peels, microdermabrasion and laser resurfacing will brighten the skin.

HORMONES AND SKIN :  When a women is pregnant, the additional hormones can cause many changes in the skin. While a beautiful rosy glow is associated with the first trimester and is a result of an abundant supply of oxygen, various sensitivities are likely to appear due to increased hormone activity. Conditions such as rashes, dryness, acne and allergies to your normal skincare products are common.

It’s important to be extra conscientious with sun protection during pregnancy, as hormonal changes make the skin more susceptible to pigmentation damage. important for the maintenance of your skin during this time: vitamin E and zinc have been shown to help reduce stretch marks, and vitamin C aids in collagen production. Always consult your doctor before taking any tablets during pregnancy and while breastfeeding.

Oral contraceptives have similar effects, leading to many of the same skin problems. Although different from person to person, many women on oral contraceptives are more sensitive to sunlight and  can develop uneven skin tone and hyper pigmentation if they don’t protect themselves adequately. Oral contraceptives can also lead to increased oil production or dehydration.

Did You Know? Viruses that sit on the skin’s surface and penetrate the stratum corneum when it’s damaged cause warts. They can be passed form person to person and are most common on the fingers and feet.

  • Eczema generally causes dry and itchy patches of skin.
  • If, unlike this woman, you suffer from a topic dermatitis, you should wash newly bought clothes before wearing them and keep your pets outdoors. Children should avoid fuzzy toys and blankets.
  • Pregnancy causes severe hormonal changes in a woman’s body that may also affect her skin.

 

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Sun Savvy

June 18, 2009 Anti Aging And Skin Care

While a small amount of early-morning sun is good for you (15 minutes is sufficient to provide you with natural vitamin D, and occasional exposure is believed to improve psychological well being), too much sun is dangerous. Besides the fact that sun dramatically ages your skin, it is also the cause of several kinds of skin cancer, including solar keratoses (wart-like growths) and malignant melanoma and just one bout of harsh sunburn may be all it takes. Photo ageing which can make up to around 85% of the overall appearance of ageing is a slow process and only becomes visible after a few decades. And then it’s too late to do anything about it.

Unfortunately, although people are now waking up to the dangers of overexposure and the horrors of skin cancer, only about half of the world’s population takes adequate precautions to protect themselves from the sun. Sun safety should be a vital part of your life and one that you must instill in your children from an early age.

THE SUN AND YOUR SKIN: Photo ageing, a result of sun  exposure, is a slow process. It may take several decades before it becomes fully noticeable. In face, 90% of sun damage occurs by the age of 20, only becoming visible in your early thirties and onwards. The degree to photo ageing is mainly determined by your skin type and total lifetime sun exposure, and the degree of damage to different areas of the body is directly proportional to the amount of sunlight revived (your hands and neckline for example, are more likely to have sun damage and age spots than your stomach). Pores may be dilated and small blood vessels become more obvious, sometimes forming broken or spider-like veins, and the skin may be mottled red or inflamed. Within the dermis, the elastic fibres increase in quantity and thickness, manifesting as deep, fixed wrinkles and less pliable skin.

The Science Of Sunburn : The Sun energy that reaches the Earth can be divided into three kinds of light: infrared and visible light, and ultraviolet radiation (UVR). UVR, in turn, consists of three different wavelengths: ultraviolet A, B and C.

Ultraviolet : C is the shortest wavelength and potentially the most damaging. DNA and proteins absorb UVC due to their molecular  structure. Fortunately for us, UVC is mostly absorbed in the atmosphere by the ozone layer. However, the current ‘thinning’ of this layer had increased the amounts that reach our planet, especially in the Southern Hemisphere.

UVB  is the most potent wavelength as it can penetrate into  the epidermis where it affects the DNA and can create lipid peroxides, precursors of free radicals. It is believed to generate most of the photo damage to skin. UVB  is the wavelength responsible for sunburn, and is at its most dangerous in the middle of a summer day, when transmitted through a blue sky. Less UVB is transmitted in the early mornings and late evenings; when the sun is lowest in the sky. 

UVA is about 1,000 times less damagomg to the skin than UVB, but it is far from harmless. UVA rays are longer than UVB rays, and 90% of the sunlight reaching the earth is made up of UVA rays. They are the ‘ageing’ rays, which penetrate deeper into the skin (the dermis) and are responsible for the damage to your collagen and elastin, and causing freckles, blotchiness and pigmentation problems. While UVB  peaks at high noon summer, UVA is fairly constant throughout the day and year and can penetrate cloud cover, tinted glass and clothing relatively easily. UVA also causes immune susceptibility to skin infections and even skin cancer.

Sunburn VS Suntan : There is no such thing as a safe tan. A suntan is actually the body’s deference mechanism against too strong sunlight and the visible  evidence of damage to the skin. Sunlight stimulates the skin to increase melanin production. As the melanin supply is activated, it moves up towards the surface of the skin where it helps prevent burning and reduces the penetration of the sun’s rays. The side effect is skin of that golden color that sun worship-per crave. Although dark-skinned people have more melanin in their skin and thus have a higher level of natural protection, they still need to use a sunscreen to avoid skin damage.

Sunburn, on the other hand, can be equated to ‘coking’ your skin. If you don’t apply sunscreen, or accidentally fall asleep in the sun, the surface blood vessels dilate (hence the redness),  and an inflammatory response is induced to fight the damage, often causing blisters in the process. the redness occurs two to eight hours after severe sun exposure and blistering can  occur after 12 to 24 hours. A frightening fact is that our skin ‘remembers’ this burn, and the DNA may not repair perfectly. These ‘errors’ in DNA  can lead to skin cancer years later. So when you make your way to  the coast for your next summer holiday, remember that although a tan fades quickly, your skin carries a permanent memory of the damage.

Protecting Your Skin : The time it takes fro unprotected skin to turn red in the sun is known as the  MED (minimal erythema dose). Your skin,  type determines your MED. Very fair skin, for example, will have a MED of about six minutes; olive-toned skin can tolerate about 10 to 12 minutes; and black skin usually has a MED of 18 to 20 minutes. SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is a standardized measure that indicates how much additional time above your MED you can spend in the sun without getting burned. For example, if your can usually spend 10 minutes in the sun before burning, an SPF 15 sunscreen will multiply that time by fifteen (10 minutes x 15 = 150 minutes of ’sun time)’.  Note that a person with fair skin can spend far less time in the sun than someone with dark skin, even if they both apply the  same level of SPF. Once your time is up, your should ideally get out of the sun. Reapplying  sunscreen only means that you will ‘cook’  more slowly, a bit like cooking your Sunday roast in the oven once it’s done you’re simply crisping it! You should, however, always reapply sunscreen after swimming, perspiring and drying yourself off. The key is to use enough sunscreen (one to two ounces) for an even and full coverage. Double applications also important: apply the first layer 20 to 30 minutes before you go to the beach, and apply another layer as your ‘coat of armour’ when you get into the sun.

  •  Sun worshipping is the single most destructive activity for your skin, with over 90% of all visible signs of ageing a  result of sun exposure.
  • Your best all against premature ageing is the daily use of a good sunscreen. The higher the SPF  (Sun Protection Factor),  the oilier the cream generally is. Sop if you’re  prone to breakouts stick to SPF 15 or lower or try a gel formula.
  • Overexposure to the sun at an early age will result in premature wrinkling between the age of 25 and 40. The dangerous rays are not just from the sun’s light they are also reflected off water and the earth.
  • No tanning product can guarantee to tan your skin a certain color depth of a tan is determined by the skin’s ability to produce melanin. The key to ’safe’ tanning is to use a product that allows production of pigment to take place slowly  by screening out most of the sun’s harmful UV rays.
  • The rule for choosing a sunscreen: use a moderate filter on your body and high protection for your face.  

PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL SUNSCREENS : Sunscreen formulations rely on physical or chemical agents to provide protection. Physical sunscreens contain inert mineral particles that reflect or block UV  rays. (Think of the white zinc dioxide layer that the cricketers use.) The molecules cannot breakdown or be absorbed by the skin and are therefore less likely to irritate the skin. This type of sunscreen is generally better for sensitive skin types. Physical sunscreens of the past tended to be thick, white and greasy, but modern preparation contain ultra fine titanium dioxide crystals that don’t leave that white residue and actually help to absorb oil. Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, contain synthetic chemical substances that absorb UV radiation. Some of the ingredients can be absorbed through the skin, so these sunscreens may cause irritation. PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid) is one of the most common sensitivity triggers in chemical sunscreens.

When choosing a sunscreen, look for ingredients like titanium dioxide or Parsol 1789 (also known as avobenzone; the most effective ingredient for absorbing UVA) and do a patch test to check for sensitivity. Make sure any product you choose offers UVA and UVB protection. It’s also essential that your sunscreen contains antioxidants such as vitamin E, flavonoids and ascorbic acid to neutralize free radical damage and trigger the repair process. Always choose a product that suits your skin type. For example, gel is best for oily skin, and creams and lotions are most suitable for dry skin.

FAUX GLOWS : What we’re hearing from dermatologists is that the only safe tan is one that comes in a tube. The good news is that this is the golden age for bottled tans; the modern formulas can give  a natural looking glow without the orange streaks and bad smells of past formulations. Self tans use DHA (dihydroxyacetone), colorless sugar that reacts with dead skin cells to create a tanned effect. The reaction is not immediate; it usually takes three to four hours for the color to develop fully. As your skin constantly renews itself, fake tans only last five to seven days. It’s very important to remember that fake tans do not provide any sun protection, so you still  need to wear a sunscreen.

WHAT ABOUT SUNBEDS? If you are at all concerned about your skin, you should never lie on a sunbed. The ultraviolet light used by indoor tanning systems is as dangerous as that of the sun and although they usually filter out the  burning UVB rays, they let the UVA rays in even deeper. Sunbeds are, in essence, automatic ageing machines and increase your risk of melanoma.

WHY VITAMIN A IS SO VITAL: Vitamin A supports the natural health of the skin. Melanocytes, keratinocytes, fibroblasts and Langerhans cells all depend on vitamin A, and a deficiency will also result in a depletion of vitamin C. Although vitamin A protects the skin from the sun, UVA destroys it. If you spend the weekend tanning next to the swimming pool, for example, the levels of vitamin A in your skin will be depleted and it will take about seven days to restore those levels. Ten minutes in the sun will cause the vitamin A level in the skin to drop to about 40% while 30 minutes of sun exposure will take the level done to about 10%. To maintain a high enough level of vitamin A in the skin to protect it, it’s essential to apply vitamin A topically, and to supply the skin wit antioxidants that protect your vitamin stores from attack by free radicals.

AND NOW FOR THE GOOD NEWS…………. Although for many people the rate of damage is higher than the skin’s inherent ability to repair itself, there is a lot of potential for self-repair. The key is to start taking the proper  precautions now, if you haven’t being doing so already. Always protect yourself from the sun. By simply applying a daily sunscreen, your are giving your skin a chance to ‘rest’ and conserve some of the energy it would otherwise expend on protection during the day. As these energy reserves grow, your skin has a better chance of carrying out the crucial roles of repairing and rebuilding itself; ensuring long term healthy functioning.

Should I Wear A Daily Sunscreen? Yes! Eighty percent of all sun exposure is incidental in other words, walking, driving to work (the dies of your face closest to the window will exhibit more signs of premature ageing), or taking a break outdoors. In fact, sitting outside at noon for your lunch hour is worse than being on the beach between 9-11:00 or 14:00-17:00. For this reason, it is generally accepted that everyone should be using some sort of daily sun protection.This is especially important if you are at risk for skin cancer or are on antibiotics,  antimalarials, Retin-A, Roaccutane, antidepressants, or some hormone, antidepressants, or some hormone replacement therapies, as they can all increase photosensitivity. So, even when it’s overcast, be sure to apply a sunscreen every morning. If you have sensitive skin, rather use a lower SPF and be careful to avoid the sun.

How Do I Know If I Am At Risk For Skin Cancer? Every person runs some risk of developing skin cancer; a lighter skin tone and unprotected sun exposure increase that risk. It is crucial to protect young skin because a severe burn before the  age of 18 almost doubles the risk of skin cancer and premature ageing. After years of sun exposure, basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma are the most common types of skin cancer and often appear on exposed areas of the skin. Melanomas are the most widely known type of skin cancer and the deadliest. Remember the ABCD of warning signs for changes in a mole,  which may indicate melanoma:  A is for asymmetry: has its shape changed? B is for border: have the edges increased or become irregular? C is for color: has the mole darkened or is the color not uniform? D is for diameter: has it become larger than 6mm (1/4 in)? Speak to a dermatologist immediately if you answer yes to any of the above questions, or if you are concerned by any suddenly appearing skin lesion. Early detection can make all the difference between successful removal and long term illness.

  •  Primary damage is done to your skin while you’re in the sun. However, there is a secondary burst of free radical damage for another 24 hours after exposure. To counter this damage, you must get enough antioxidants and make repair part of your skincare routine. 
  • Low levels of melanin make light skin much more susceptible to photo ageing. Yet black skin, which has quite a high melanin content, is not immune to sunburn.
  • If you do burn  in the sun, you can partially alleviate the unpleasant sting by applying cool compresses or adding oatmeal to a lukewarm bath. Creams containing menthol can be very soothing too.
  • There’s no doubt that sunshine makes us feel good. It is essential, however, to learn how to enjoy it without putting your skin at risk.
  • Always remember: how you look after your skin as a child (parents, take note!) will determine your appearance 20 years down the line.

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Taking Care Of Your Face

June 17, 2009 Anti Aging And Skin Care

 But good skincare doesn’t have to expensive, time consuming or daunting. Before bothering to spend a fortune on products that may not suit you, you need to know your skin type. If you’re unsure, go to a professional dermatologist, skincare therapist or beauty advisor at a cosmetics counter for a skin analysis. Your skin is a living organ and can change from season to season or week to week depending on your general health, lifestyle, diet and hormonal changes, as the weather. It is therefore important to have your skin profiled at least twice a year.

  • Invest in a nourishing  moisturizer and eye cream. You can save money on your cleanser and toner.

SKIN TYPES : A very fair person that always burns in the sun would be categorize as a skin type one, while a black-skinned person who rarely burns and tans darkly would be a skin type six. When buying skincare products however, it’s often more practical to choose according to how dry or oily your skin feels.

Normal Skin: Normal skin has nothing obviously wrong with it. It is in a balanced state of suppleness, elasticity, hydration and color, and feels soft and smooth to the touch. It rarely breaks out and feels comfortable after cleansing (neither tight nor dry). Normal skin can change however, as a poor skincare routine, excessive sun, wind or could exposure, a poor diet and hormones can take their toll.

Dry Skin: Dry skin is often characterized by feeling  of tightness due to a lack of emollients or oil. It has a fine texture, no visible pores, may be rough and scaly in places and shows lines and wrinkles easily. It really suffers breakouts. The problem lies in poor epidermal function and damage to the water lipid barrier. This is a common complaint with mature skin as hydration ability decreases as we age (due to a slowing down of oil production by the sebaceous glands). Dehydrated skin should not be confused with dry skin, although it can feel tight and flaky. Deeply nourishing or hydrating masks and moisturizer scan be used to are balance the skin and help to prevent against further moisture loss.

Oily Skin: A result of excess sebum production, it’s characterized by a shiny appearance, especially on the ‘T-zone’ the forehead, nose and chin. The epidermis tends to thicken and the pores dilate, giving the skin a slightly rough and irregular texture. A person with this skin type is more likely to suffer from spots and acne.

Combination Skin: There are two forms of combination skin: oily/normal and dry/normal skin, the centre panel (T-zone) is oily while the rest of the face is comfortable. In the dry/normal combination skin, the centre panel may be normal with dry patches on the cheeks. You need to treat both zones in combination skin moisturizing the dry patches and controlling the sebum on the oily parts.

Sensitive Versus Sensitized? In addition to these skin types, many people believe they have sensitive skin. However, true sensitivity is not as common as we think. Truly sensitive skin is easily irritated and and con not tolerate  cosmetic products. Many of us suffer bouts of skin sensitivity, set off  anything from climate changes to stress. This is a temporary state, referred to as sensitized skin, and can usually be relieved through soothing treatment. The best way to handle sensitive, have facials nor use masks unless you are certain that the products suit you. Steer clear of soap, which can after the skin’s natural pH balance, alpha hydroxy creams, creams, the sun and perfumes. Look for hypoallergenic and allergy tested products or consult a dermatologist. A sensitive skin is slightly different to an  allergic skin. While sensitivity is difficult to cure, with the right products it can be significantly improved. Allergic skin, on the other hans, tends to react more aggressively and the reaction may last for up to 10 days. These skin types army need a dermatological skincare routine. If your skin is behaving badly, it may be a sign that your body is taking strain in times of stress, your skin gets the short end of the stick. The bottom line: take a look at your lifestyle and see how you can reduce stress in order to gain control of your skin.

  • You need to know your skin type and identify your key concerns before you put anything on your face.
  • This illustration depicts the location of the T-zone on oily area that’s prone to breakouts and usually develops a shine during the day.

BASICS OF SKINCARE :

Cleanse:Everyone’s skin gets dirty from dust, sweat, make-up, sebum and impurities in the air. If you do not cleanse, your pores will become clogged and your pores will becomes clogged and your skin will start to look dull. Choosing a cleanser has a lot to do with personal preference, but always take your skin type into account. Avoid scrubbing acne-prone skin as it may irritate the lesions. Soap is a no-no on your face. Your skin is by nature slightly acidic (with a pH of about 5.5) and most soap leaves an alkaline residue that’s difficult to wash off and may leave skin feeling dry and tight. If you just can’t wean yourself off that lathering texture, some cosmetics houses make soap-free ‘facial bars’ that foam, but are gentler than regular soap. Generally, if you have very dry skin, it’s advisable to avoid soap bars altogether.

Tone: The jury is still  out on toners. Many dermatologists believe that they don’t provide any special benefit other than to remove the final traces of make-up and cleanser and so make the skin feel clean and fresh. they cannot actually ‘close’ pores as some manufacturers claim they do pores are the openings for the sebaceous glands and can’t be closed from the outside. However, modern formulations are becoming more and more sophisticated, with some offering soothing and anti-ageing benefits. 

Many brands also claim that toners help to restore the pH balance of the skin after cleansing. Astringents are strong toners with a high alcohol content that may irritate some sensitive and dry skins. Many toners that are designed for use on oily skins contain alcohol precisely because of its drying effect. However, they can also aggravate acne-prone skin as they may cause an increase in the skin as they may cause an increase in the skin’s oil production as well as increased sensitivity.

Moisturize: In the past, moisturizers were designed simply to serve as barriers against the environment. Neither did they penetrate the skin, nor allow it to ‘breathe’; thus leading to congested. nutrient-starved skin.

Modern moisturizers are designed to help the skin function properly and to improve eater retention in the epidermis by ’sealing’ it effectively maintaining a delicate balance between adding water to the surface and preventing evaporation. A vast choice of products is available and it is hard to decide which  moisturizer is right for you. As a guideline, we should all be wearing a moisturizer that offers antioxidant benefits (to fight free radicals and prevent premature ageing). The majority of modern formulations also contain a myriad other ingredients to firm, smooth, mattify or boost radiance, for example. Ask yourself what concerns you most about your skin is it your breakouts, pigmentation, fine lines, dryness, lack of radiance or wrinkles? and choose accordingly. As a general rule, drier skins needs a rich, hydrating moisturizer, while combination and oily skins do better with a lightweight lotion. If your moisturizer does not contain a sunscreen, layer one over it.

 Serums And Boosters: These lightweight formulations have a high concentration of active ingredients and are ideal for special care. Applied under your moisturizer, they usually have anti-ageing or hydrating benefits. If your skin suffers from excessive dryness during winter, for example, a hydrating serum can be used just for those few months until the weather changes and your skin is back to normal.

Eye cream: Because the skin around the eyes is the first to show signs of ageing, there is definitely a case for using a special cream for this area. The skin around the eyes ages more quickly because it is thinner than that on the rest of the face, and so is less able to retain moisture. Also, the area is generally more sensitive, with fewer and smaller oil glands and, because the eyes are so expressive, the skin around them is made to move excessively. If you use your regular moisturizer around the eye area you could end up with puffy, irritated eyes, while rich lotions can block the glands.

The fragrances, emulsifiers and emollients that are used in various moisturizers and night creams may also cause sensitivity in this delicate area. Most eye products have multiple benefits, targeting the common problems associated with the skin around the eyes like fine lines, dark circles and puffiness.

Neck Cream: Because the skin on the neck has a small number of fat cells and low supplies of sebum, it is prone to dryness and sagging and, like your hands, reveals your age. A specially enriched neck cream, therefore, has its benefits, but you can also just extend your regular routine to the decolletage.

Night Cream: Skin cells do their repair work most effectively at night. In fact, research shows that skin cell regeneration almost doubles at nigh, peaking between 23:00 and 4:00. Production of colagen (the skin’s natural support structure) is boosted, harmful free radicals are destroyed and cell damage is rectified. The latest night creams are designed  to maximize the nighttime repair process and are generally more nourishing  than a day cream.

Masks:  Masks and serums are also the perfect way to treat temporary skin conditions such as dehydration or some form of sensitivity, caused by environ mental factors. They can be applied once or twice a week depending on the severity of your problem.

Exfoliate To Rejuvenate: One of the reasons young skin is so clear and radiant is because in its prime, young, healthy skin replaces itself naturally every 14 days. As ate sets in this process slows until, at about age 40; the renewal  cycle is increased to 30 days. If these dead skin cells sit on the surface of the skin, they clog the pores and make the complexion look dull. Removing them reveals clearer, brighter skin and restores suppleness and vigour by stimulating cell renewal.

Mechanical Exfoliation: If you like to use a scrub, look for a gentle one with fine granules that dissolve in water. Don’t overdo it once a week is enough.

Chemical exfoliants: Have ingredients like alpha and beta hydroxy acids, retinoic acid or enzymes (such as papain, found in papaya). These literally ‘unglue’ dead surface cells and do nto require vigorous rubbing and rinsing.

Alpha hydroxy acids (fruit acids) are a group of natural chemicals found in fruit, wine, sugar cane and sour milk  that exfoliate the skin’s surface layer and accelerate new cell production. If you use products that contain these ingredients on a daily basis, avoid combining them with abrasive scrubs. Always be very gentle as over exfoliation can cause sensitivity. By removing too many cells you could compromise the skin’s natural protective barrier and  reveal cells that have not been properly primed for the harsh environment.

How Often Should I Cleanse? Cleansing twice a day is sufficient. If you are using mild and well-formulated products you won’t damage the skin. Some experts believe you should have at least two cleansers a milder formula for the morning when there’s little or no oil build-up, and a deeper cleansing product for the end of the day.

  • Never apply eye cream directly to the eyelid or underneath the eye. Using your ring finger, dot it on the orbital bone that circles the eye. The product will gradually work its way in through the repeated action of blinking.
  • The neck and decolletage ore  often exposed, so protect and treat them  wit the same care as you do you face by simply extending your skincare  routine down to your chest.
  • Whether you want to smooth, purify hydrate, brighten or soothe your skin, there’s a face mask for you. Masks should be used regularly for the best results, but do not overuse them.
  • Exfoliating too often or too harshly can compromise your skin’s protective waterproof layer. Be very careful of abrasive products; ideally thorough exfoliations should be  done by a skincare therapist.
  • Your entire body will benefit from a through exfoliation  procedure. It is particularly useful before applying a self-tanning lotion, as the product is much less likely to leave unsightly streaks when applied to smooth skin.
  • Many of the newer scrubs contain tiny encapsulated beads to ensure a gentle exfoliation process that does not abrade unnecessarily.

 ORGANIC VERSUS NATURAL: The question is: how natural is ‘natural’ and what exactly  is the difference between natural and organic? If a product is truly organic it will be certified b an organic certification agency. The trouble is that it’s hard to produce 100% organic beauty  products because preservatives are vital constituents, and natural  preservatives are hard to find.

Organic products are also made from natural ingredients; they are grown without the use of chemicals or pesticides. Seaweed, for example, can be  classified as a natural product, but is  not organic because it’s not grown in controlled conditions.

Truly organic  products do not contain any genetically modified ingredients nor petrochemicals (synthetic ingredients derived from natural petroleum or oil), nor do they undergo any animal testing (unless required by law) and are only subjected to minimal processing. Some cosmetic companies add natural ingredients in the form of fruit acids, vitamins, borage and hemp to skincare products. Some products use ingredients that mimic the skin’s natural functions, like hyaluronic acid, a moisturizer that occurs naturally in the skin.

So what is best? Some experts believe that 60% of everything you put on your skin is absorbed by it. Your skin is absorbed by it. Your skin is a highly effective delivery system, so it makes sense that organic beauty products made without the use of artificial fertilizers, pesticides, chemicals or drugs ensure the highest level of nourishment to the skin. But remember that you can still have an allergic reaction to a ‘natural’ product. Natural ingredients can trigger skin reactions in the same way that synthetic ingredients can. If you have sensitive skin, look for products that have full ingredient listings to enable you to identify potential aggressors.

 A SKIN FOR ALL SEASONS: Winter can be torture to your skin, so it’s no surprise that many recurrent skin problems are at their worst at this time of year. dryness can diminish he epidermis’ ability to provide protection, leading to seasonal eczema, hypersensitivity and rough skin. With a little care, however you can keep your skin looking its best come rain or shine. During dry weather, the key is more moisture, more often. If you use an oil-free moisturizer, consider up-grading to one that contains small amounts of essential oils for a moisture  boost, or switch from your summer moisturizer to a richer cream. Depending on the humidity levels, you may also want to apply a weekly hydrating mask to help restore suppleness to the skin. Putting a humidifire in your home and office will also help prevent dehydration, which is especially important if you are constantly exposed to air-conditioners and heaters.

INGREDIENT WATCH: Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or fruit acids, are derived from natural ingredients such as milk, olives, apples and grapes. They help speed up the exfoliation process by dissolving the glue that bonds the cells. When choosing an AHA, it’s important to consider the form and concentration. Lactic acid (made from fermented milk) and glycolic acid (made from sugar cane), for example, are particularly effective in treating dry skin and dry-skin diseases such as eczema and psoriasis, as well as decreasing wrinkles. Regarding the concentration: the higher it is, the more effective is the product. However, AHAs should be used with caution. They can cause irritation and do increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun. If you use AHAs, you need to use a daily sunscreen with SPF15 or higher.

Antioxidants. are part of the body’s natural defence system, derived from vitamins A, C and E. They protect the skin by attaching themselves to free radicals and neutralizing them. Since your skin is your first line of defence against the outside world it makes sense to arm it with the most potent antioxidants available. Other good antioxidants include grape seed extract, black green tea extract and lycopene (extracted from tomatoes, red guava, watermelon and the skin of red grapes). Polyphenols or catechins, which are found in green are, exhibit powerful antioxidant properties. In face, they are 20 times stronger than vitamin E.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) work in much the same way as AHAs. The best known of the BHAs is salicylic acid, which is made from willow bark. BHAs appear to be less irritating than AHAs.

Coenzyme Q10 occurs naturally in every skin cell and helps convert food into energy. Without Co-Q10 known as the ‘fuel of youth’ the body’s cells are unable to produce energy. Stress, UV radiation and ageing cause a drop in the natural  levels of this coenzyme, while increased levels boost cell activity, regeneration and elasticity.

Enzymes like papain (from papaya) and bromelian (from pineapple) are botanically derived and naturally exfoliate and brighten the skin. Enzyme activators are also being designed to suppress the ‘bad’ enzymes collagenase and elastase that damage collagen and elastin.

Flavonoids belong to a group of organic plant molecules produced by plants to protect themselves from attack by diseases and insects as well as damage from intense UV light. Green tea is rich in flavonoid antioxidants. They’re also found in onions, apples and citrus fruits. They mop up free radicals, fight off viruses, calm inflammation and help protect against allergies. 

Retinoids is a derivative term for vitamin A. Powerful retinoids like retinoic acid are found in prescription-only products like Ritin-A and Roaccutane and are used to treat sun dam age and acne. Gentler derivatives like retinyl palmitate and retinol can be found in cosmetic creams.

  • Seaweed has detoxifying properties it stimulates circulation and encourages the elimination of wastes and water.
  • Fruit or vegetable pulp can make a wonderful skin treatment. It contains stimulating enzymes that can make the skin look firmer and fresher.
  • Herb teas are excellent for health and beauty. Green tea, especially, is a superb source of antioxidants.

THE BENEFITS OF TOPICALLY APPLIED VITAMINS

Vitamin A.  (1) Improves skin elasticity. (2) Increases moisture content, making skin appear more supple. (3) Helps to reverse the signs of photo ageing.  (4) Scavenges free radicals.

Vitamin B5. (1) Encourages cell regeneration. (2) Stimulates the healing process. (3) Prevents scarring. (4) Conditions the skin. 

Vitamin C. (1) Plays a vital role in the production of pro collagen, the building blocks of collagen fibres. (2) Controls production of hyper pigmentation. (3) Scavenges free radicals. (4) Strengthens capillary walls; helps heal the skin. (5) Boosts skin’s immune system.

Vitamin E. (1) Protects skin cells and membranes. (2) Controls production of collagen. (3) Appears to promote skin healing. (4) Relieves skin dryness. (5) Slows collagen degradation. (6) Anti-inflammatory.

Vitamin F. (1) Restores the skin’s natural barrier function. (2) Maintains optimum moisture levels.

 Topically applied vitamins are very fragile. When exposed to oxygen, light or pollution, they can decompose and lose many of their beneficial qualities. Look for sealed packages that are specifically designed to protect the potency of products, as opposed to vitamin rich skin care products that are packaged in open containers such as jars or dropper bottles.

  • Our hectic, modern lifestyle taxes the body and depletes its natural supply of vitamins and minerals. Adding good vitamin and mineral supplements to your diet can boost your immune system and improve the way you look and feel.
  • Eating a diet rich in antioxidant vitamins and using an  antioxidant cream on a daily basis is a wise insurance policy for your skin. Look out for products that contain vitamin A (to act on wrinkles), vitamin C (for radiance and tone) and vitamin E (to improve texture).

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Top Rated Organic Skin Care And Cosmetics

June 13, 2009 Anti Aging And Skin Care

Besides its obvious role of keeping our insides in skin, is also responsible for keeping foreign invaders out, regulating body temperature, getting rid of waste matter, acting as a water reservoir, manufacturing vitamin D from sunlight and housing our senses of touch hand pain.

   From a distance, your skin appears smooth and flat, but on closer inspection you will see that a network of tiny groves, which change shape as the skin moves, marks the surface. A cross section looks a little like a complex Dagwood sandwich, with various layers and fillings. The two skin layers the epidermis and dermis rest on a third layer of subcutaneous fat, and send signals to the brain to set various physiological functions in motion. In order to take the best care of your skin, it’s important to understand how these layers work.

THE EPIDERMIS. Your skin’s front line of defence is the epidermis. It allows light to partially pass through it  as it would through frosted glass, and is nourished by blood vessels in the deeper layers of the ’skin food’. Plump, moist skin cells are developed in the basal layer of the epidermis. As each new layer of skin cells from, the cells move up towards the skin’s surface, becoming flattened as they do so. By the time they reach the outer horny layer of the skin-known as the stratum corneum they are effectively dead. These layers of densely packed cells, known as corneocytes, are filled with a protein called keratin, and a fatty lipid. Like the tiles of a roof, they overlap in layers to from a strong, protective shield that prevents water loss. Throughout your life, the cells of the surface layer are continually being worn away and replaced with new cells from below. In normal skin, it takes about 30 days for the cells to move up to the surface. If the outer layer is being lost quickly due to sunburn, for example these cells will be replaced more swiftly. Below the stratum corneum are the Langerhans cells, which patrol for invaders, and the melanocytes cells that produce the pigment melanin which helps determine the color of your hair and skin. Melanocytes evolved to help the skin ward off dangerous UV radiation ; the melanin on the skin surface absorbs UV light, protecting the cells below.  Black-skinned people, therefore, are genetically programmed to be more resistant to UV damage because of the profusion of melanin within their cells. People with white skin tend to suffer more from unprotected sun exposure because they have less melanin, and because their melanosomes are smaller and grouped together in membrane-bound clumps. Skin cells in Asian people contain smaller melanosome complexes that are more densely packed than those found in Caucasian skin cells.

THE DERMIS. The dermis is composed entirely of living cells. While the epidermis can repair itself,  the dermis can become permanently damaged. This layer consists mainly of collagen, a protein that’s responsible for the structural support (i.e. strength and resilience) of the skin. Collagen is packaged in bundles help together by elastic fibres. These are made up of another protein, elastin, which gives the skin its tone, plumpness and elasticity. Also found in the dermis are the sebaceous glands, hair follicles and sweat glands. The main function of sweat glands is to regulate the body’s temperature. They are distributed over the entire body surface, with a larger number on the palms, soles and forehead. The sebaceous glands produce sebum (oil), the skin’s natural lubricant. They are very sensitive to hormones, especially male hormones, which increase the glands’ size and the secretion of sebum. (That’s why males are more prone to acne, especially during puberty.) Sebaceous glands therefore play a key role in determining facial skin type.

Do men and women age differently?  Also, testosterone, which is found in far higher levels in men, increases the rate of cell turnover in the basal layer and enhances collagen production, thereby thickening the skin. While there is a gradual thinning of skin with age in men (about 1% per year), the thickness of a woman’s skin remains fairly consistent until menopause, when her oestrogen levels start  to fall. Then she will experience a dramatic thinning of the skin, and decreased collagen synthesis and repair. In addition, there is an increase in intrnisic ageing with the failure of oestrogen production and reduced dermal hydration.

THE FUNCTION OF THE SKIN 

   Absorption And Assimilation: The skin is the gateway to the body and a barrier to the outside world. A substance can only be assimilated or used by the cells once it has been absorbed. Well-cleansed, exfoliated skin absorbs creams more easily, and massage or pressurized movements further aid this process. Absorptions depends on the molecular structure of the product, which is why a moisturizer is absorbed, for example, but water and cleanser are not.

Sense Of Touch: The skin is full of nerve endings that transmit sensations like heat, cold, pressure and texture to the brain. Tingling skin, for example, is a neuro response and not an allergic response.

Regulation Of Body Temperature: The millions of veins, capillaries and arteries that traverse the skin, together with the sweat glands, regulate our internal body temperature so that it remains constant, regardless of the external temperature. This is made possible by the contraction and expansion of these vessels as necessary (in cold and in heat respectively), and the production of perspiration by the sweat glands to cool the body down when it overheats.

Protection: The skin protection the body, physically from bumps, shocks and water loss and chemically from infection and dehydration by means of the acid mantle.

  • On one square inch of cheek there are some 30 nerves, 15 sensory receptors for heat and 1300 pain receptors.
  • The concept of skincare is simple: be gentle. Treat it with tender loving care and it is going to reward you with a fresher and more youthful appearance later in life.

 HOW SKIN AGES : Your body is programmed to age and there’s nothing you can do about your internal clock! The good news is there’s a lot you can do to slow down the visible results of the process and keep your skin looking better for longer. There are two types of ageing intrinsic and extrinsic.

   Intrinsic or chronological ageing is the natural, biological process of ageing, over which we have little control. Extrinsic ageing is a result of external causes, in particular photo ageing (damage caused by ultraviolet radiation or sun exposure). Exposure to UV light and pollution accelerate ageing due to the production of free radicals in the skin. Free radicals are rogue molecules that attack the collagen and elastin fibres as well as new skin cells as they form. Although this happens mainly in the dermis, the effect is visible on the surface of the skin as a dry and weakened skin texture, pigmentation, broken veins and an increased vulnerability to further external damage.

   The difference between intrinsic and extrinsic ageing can be seen on the inside of your upper arm, near the armpit. You will notice that this skin is smooth, soft and supple, while the skin on the back of the hands is thicker, rougher and drier. With intrinsic ageing, the skin’s outer layer will become about 20%  thinner over time, although the skin’s surface should remain smooth. Sun-damaged skin, however, is thickened, with up to 50% more cells accumulating on the surface, giving it a rough, dry texture. (Think of a weather-beaten fisherman.) Photo ageing also causes a marked accumulation of pigment in the basal layers, resulting in age spots. In  addition, pores tend to be more dilated and the skin may appear more mottled. And that’s only the damage visible to the naked eye!

  • The thinnest skin is on the eyes, lips, neck and the back of the hands, and the thickest on the palms of the hands and soles of the feet.
  • Hands can give away age in a flash. Compared to the face, they have a thinner layer of skin, less fat to hide wrinkles, fewer oil glands to moisturize them and you can’t use make-up to conceal them. The secret to good looking hands: take good care of them.
  • Genetics play an important role in determining how you will age. If your mother looked good well not her sixties, chances are high you will too if you look after yourself, of course.

A LIFETIME OF SKIN : Skin changes as we age. There is little you can do about it, but if you take good care of yourself throughout your lifetime, you can reduce the visible effects of the ageing process.

   With age, the elasticity and strength of the skin declines. Coupled with the pull of gravity, this results in sagging and wrinkles. Although some products claim to ‘restore’ youth, there is nothing one can do to stop this decline. One can, however, preserve what one has by following a good care routine and minimizing sun exposure. It is mostly the damage done to deeper levels that determines how our skin looks as we get older, and this is largely self-inflicted by years of overexposure to the sun. Everyone’s skin ages differently according to genetics, lifestyle choices, stress levels, exposure to things like ultraviolet light or harmful substances, and to a certain extent, just plain luck.

PRE TEEN :  For the first decade of a child’s life, its skin looks clear, smooth, plump, wrinkle and blemish-free. The reason for this healthy appearance is that the epidermis works efficiently it is translucent and well hydrated. The surface is smooth and unlined and light is reflected from a healthy, undamaged skin, hence the term the ‘bloom of youth’. At this age, there is usually little or no apparent sun damage, but it is the time when the damage that will surface later is being done. Now is the time to instil sun awareness in your children. They well  thank you 20 years down the line. 

TEN EARLY 20s : Hormonal changes can cause havoc with skin. They cause an increase in sebum production, which often leads to breakouts, acne and shiny, oily skin. The twenties are a kind of transitional period by the time you enter them, the extreme hormone production has usually calmed down and your skin becomes normal (although some people suffer from spots well  into their 30s). This is the time to establish a good skincare routine. Although the effects of the sun have not become visible, much of the harm will have already been done by the age of 18.

25-40 :  Towards  the end of the twenties, the first signs of fine lines around the eyes and mouth usually appear as collagen and elastin start to break down in the skin. There’s a significant drop in skin hydration, and adult acne may also occur. Broken veins may appear as tiny red dots on the skin, and brown pigmentation marks and age spots can begin to show. Pores can enlarge and skin may become coarser due to sun damage, or the fact that the rate of loss of dead surface cells has stated to slow down (which is why exfoliation is so important now).

INTO MENOPAUSE : If you looked after yourself in your younger years, you  will see the benefits now. At this age natural ageing becomes more visible and deeper wrinkles, crow’s feet and frown lines become prominent. Skin loses its firmness as there is a significant decrease in dermal  repair and cohesion between the skin’s layers. During menopause, the production of oestrogen drops dramatically, causing a breakdown in collagen resulting in wrinkles and sagging. Skin also becomes more fragile and you may experience slow-healing cuts or bruises.

55+  With decreased thickness of the dermis, decreased resilience of the skin and the loss of subcutaneous fat, sagging and jowl-like wrinkles become apparent. You may also notice an increase in fine facial hair. Skin can appear sallow with uneven color and dark under-eye circles. If you were a sun worshipper in the past, discoloration will now become visible. You’ll notice the effects of gravity most strongly in your 70s facial skin and neck start to appear ‘loose’. Hands, too, will show the passing of time and age spots are pronounced.

THE KEYS TO HEALTHY SKIN :

Regular Exercise. During exercise the circulation is boosted and oxygen-rich blood is delivered to every cell in your body allowing nutrients to be absorbed quicker. The short-term effects is a glowing complexion. Long-term, many experts believe that exercise improves the skin’s elasticity and encourages new cell growth. Remember, however, that moderation is the key to good health. Professional sports people sometimes have a gaunt look due to  a low body fat concentration. That is not necessarily a good thing as you get older, as it may mean you lose some of that youthful plumpness. Training outdoors also potentially means more sun exposure.

Balanced Died. Although some dermatologists don’t  believes that what you eat has any effect on the state of your skin, it is acknowledged that your skin reflects the general health of your body. Clear, radiant skin is dependant on the efficient functioning of your kidneys, intestines and liver the organs responsible for detoxification and waste removal. Excess alcohol, drugs and fatty foods can put strain on these organs, resulting in a sluggish system and pasty, blotchy skin, while smoking and high caffeine intake can compromise your body’s defence system. Regular crash dieting also plays havoc with your body and can add as much as 10 years to your face, while nutrient deficiencies will affect your complexion, can manifest in a dull, dry complexion; a shortage of vitamin C may result in dullness and easy bruising; lack of vitamin A can cause dry skin and a disruption in cellular turnover; a deficiency in iron can produce a pale complexion; and a vitamin B deficiency may lead to breakouts, pallor and cracks at the corners of the mouth.

Enough Sleep.  Skincare experts now believe that skin cells regenerate as the body rests, repairing damage done during the day and producing new cells in preparation for the next. Studies have also shown that sleep-deprived people have lower levels of a growth hormone that influences specific skin-growth factors like collagen and keratin production. As far most of us are concerned, there’s just no denying what a lack of sleep does to your eyes and complexion!

Deep Breathing. Your skin absorbs a small amount of oxygen through the pores and so needs to ‘breathe’. Try not putting anything onto your face for at least a small part of each day and always cleanse well to avoid blocked pores. Breathing properly through your lungs will also benefit your skin: breathing in supplies your skin with oxygen and breathing out removes carbon dioxide and waste. Many of us breathe incorrectly by taking shallows breaths into the top of the chest.

   Try inhaling slowly through the nose. Keep the shoulders relaxed and draw each breath right down into your stomach, holding it there to a count of four, before exhaling slowly, emptying out your lungs completely. Breathing is a great stress reliever: it has been shown to lower the pulse rate and its easy, rhythmic quality is comforting.

  • There is no denying the benefits of exercise it’s the easiest way to perk up a lacklustre  complexion.

ENEMIES OF THE SKIN :

City Life. Furthermore, car fumes (especially leaded petrol) and dust can filter in through air vents; chemicals are released into the air by machines; modern ventilation systems restrict the supply of fresh air in office buildings; and there’s UV radiating from unnatural light sources and computer screens. Our drinking water often contains chemicals, residues of heavy metals and human wastes. Adds stress to this package and it’s no wonder we’re seeing so many more cases of sensitized  skin. In fact, living in a polluted city can add as much as five years to your face.

Sun. Let’s face it, there is no such thing as a healthy tan. While a teeny bit of sun exposure is necessary for vitamin D  production, too much sun will prematurely age the skin. According to dermatologists, the sun’s ultraviolet rays are accountable for more skin damage than any other factor.

Smoking. If you cannot give up smoking for all the sound health reasons, at least consider what it does to your face. The skin of a smoker is, on average, 40% thinner than a non-smoker’s Smokers have far more wrinkles than non-smokers in fact, a 40-year-old smoker is likely to have as many as a 60-year-old non-smoker. Particularly noticeable are the lines around the mouth (from puckering) and eyes (from squinting through the smoke).

   Furthermore, nicotine and tar slow down the blood circulation and thus reduce blood flow to the skin, depriving it of vital nutrients and oxygen, and leading to an unattractive grey-tinged, dull complexion. The two harmful substances also promote the formation of free radicals and weaken the collagen and elastin fibres, resulting in skin that is prematurely wrinkled. If that’s not enough to put you off, consider that smokers have much higher rates of skin cancers, they are less able to utilize antioxidant vitamins such as vitamin C and their wounds heal slower. When your skin is cut, it needs more oxygen and nutrients than normal for the healing process. Smoking causes the little blood vessels in the skin to constrict, resulting in less blood flowing to the skin and therefore slower haling.

Stress. Mental overload and undue stress can cause your skin to behave badly. When you’re stressed, the body releases adrenal or stressed, the body releases adrenal or stress hormones, which bring about a number of changes in the skin, including blemishes and oily or dry patches. In chronic cases, blood is pumped away from the skin to the main organs, resulting in a pale, ashen appearance and under-eye circles. At the same time, cell turnover is slowed, and this leads to a build-up of toxins that makes the skin look sallow.

  • Skin the body’s largest organ, makes up about 15% of your body weight.
  •  Pollution, sun exposure, sugar and cigarette smoke all trigger the formation of free radicals. The result is a skin ‘breakdown’ manifesting in premature ageing or even severe conditions such as skin cancer. 

WHAT ARE FREE RADICALS? Free radicals are reactive molecules created naturally by the body, particularly by the body, particularly when it is exposed to sunlight or under stress. Excessive exercise can also trigger abnormal free radical production due to the increased intake of oxygen. The smoke, chemicals and toxins that we encounter in everyday city life cause almost continual free radical production (the skin can generate free radicals in a millionth of a second if exposed to cigarette smoke).

   Free radicals are unstable molecules that act as scavengers in the skin, damaging connective tissue, cell membranes and DNA, our basic genetic building blocks. On the skin, this chemical chaos results in a heightened skin cancer risk and premature ageing. Young, healthy skin has sufficient enzymes and vitamins to neutralize these ‘terrorists’, but as we age, our natural defense mechanisms become depleted and the skin becomes less effective at defending itself from attack. Antioxidants are currently our best  method of limiting free radical damage. They work by stopping the formation of free radicals and ‘mopping them up’ as they form.

How Do Free Radicals Form?

  • Oxygen molecules have four pairs of electrons. Sun, smoking, stress, etc. Can cause the loss of electrons. At this stage the molecule, desperate to ‘regain’ its lost electron, is defined as a free radical. So begins the raid on other molecules.
  • Scavenging free  radicals take an electron from other molecules, thus creating new free radicals that go on their own rampage.
  • This chain reaction eventually causes the cell membrane to disintegrate, leaving the cell vulnerable to premature ageing and disease.
  • Antioxidants remove free radicals as they form by replacing the lost electrons and so creating normal oxygen molecules.

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