Make up should be a tool to make you look good, use cosmetics to enhance, not disguise, and experiment with different colors to accentuate your natural assets.
PRIMERS : Does your complexion look dull and lifeless? Do you have uneven skin tone? Are your cheeks often red? If you suffer from discoloration, spend, time priming your skin to rectify problems before applying make-up. It pays off in the long run and creates the perfect canvas for cosmetic application.
Color correctors. Work by counterbalancing their opposing hue, toning down or brightening the complexion and camouflaging imperfections. Green takes out the redness from blemishes, thread veins, ruddy cheeks and sunburn. Lilac revives tired, sallow skin and adds radiance under harsh lights. Yellow evens out skin tone and can be mixed with foundation to with pale skin, covering dark spots and toning down mild redness on the cheeks and around the base of the nose. Apricot can be used as a general pick-me-up for dull skin. White gives the skin luminosity and lightens dark circles under the eyes.
The secret of using a color corrector. Lies in application and thorough blending. One of the biggest beauty blunders is a brightly colored corrector shining through make-up. For the best results, paint the color corrector on with a fine-tipped brush, use your fingertips to melt the color into your skin and then apply foundation.
CONCEALER : To disguise pimples and under-eye bags, you no longer need numerous tools of the trade. An oil-free stick concealer is the best all-round option for cover-up work. Steer clear of oil-based preparations as they have a tendency to slide on and then glide off, or settle in fine lines and wrinkles. Look for a shade that is slightly lighter than your choice of foundation. If you can’t find the exact color match, try mixing a couple of shades on the back of your hands before applying.
To disguise under-eye bags. Gently pat concealer along the orbital bone under the eye and blend it in with your fingertips. Set the area with a light dusting of powder. As signs of ageing become more obvious around the eyes, avoid using powder as it will only accentuate these traits.
To mask minor imperfections. Use a fine-tipped make-up brush. Concentrate color on the center of a pimple and feather outwards. Set the area with powder. To zap blemishes, dab on a drop of lavender oil, known for its anti-bacterial properties, under concealer. If camouflaged imperfections dry out and look unsightly during the day, pat on a little moisturizer with your fingertip and lightly dust with powder. This instantly gives the skin a new lease of life.
LIQUID FOUNDATIONS : Come in various forms. Water-based formulas sit combination or problem kinds; oil-based formulas help hydrate dry skins; and oil-free variants are ideal for oily skins.
STICK FOUNDATIONS : Provide excellent coverage but can be difficult to apply. Smooth on with your fingertips or use a damp sponge.
TINTED MOISTURIZERS : Both enhance and provide protection from the sun. However, shades are limited and coverage is minimal. They are great for summer wear.
COMPACT FOUNDATIONS : Combine foundation and powder in one and are easy to use. This type of foundation is suitable for all skin types.
MOUSSE FOUNDATIONS : Are light and light and airy and feel weightless once applied. As coverage is minimal, they suit young, blemish-free skins.
CREAM FORMULATIONS : Have a moisture-rich feel, which makes them perfect for dry skins. They give extra coverage and provide a dewy finish.
FOUNDATION : Foundation should cover but not whitewash your entire face. With clever application, foundation can mask imperfections and at the same time give your skin a clean, seemingly unmade-up finish.
SHADE SELECTION : Finding the perfect color match is one of the toughest beauty jobs and it can make or break your look.
Experiment with different shades. And take into account your natural skin tone. Fair complexions should opt for ivory bases with yellow undertones and steer clear of pinkish shades. Yellow-toned complexions should go for a beige base with a yellow undertone. Olive skins need pinkish-toned foundation, otherwise the skin will look sallow and dull. Dark complexions often suffer from uneven skin tone, so use foundation to rectify this. Opt for a shade that is specifically formulated for dark skin, otherwise the complexion will appear ashy from the excess of titanium dioxide contained in most products. Consider whether your skin is dry, normal or oily and find the right formulation to suit your skin type.
APPLICATION : Use foundation sparingly and only apply it where necessary (to the T-zone or to camouflage imperfections). Complete foundation coverage can make your face appear caked and unnatural.
For the best results. Warm foundation on the back of your hand and then smooth it on with your fingertips. Apply compact foundations with a damp or dry sponge, depending on the desired result. For maximum coverage, use a damp sponge but work quickly because the formula dries fast. For retouches, apply foundation with a dry sponge.
POWDER : Powder is the perfect tool to set your base and keep any oily secretions at bay. The choice of passed or loose powder depends on personal preference. Pressed formulations are easy to use and ideal for retouches, while loose powder can be messy to apply.
Use face powder only where essential. Dust it onto areas prone to shine such as the nose, chine and forehead. Forth best results, use a large brush and work down your face (to prevent particles of powder from catching under superfluous facial hair and giving an uneven finish). Always blow on a loaded brush before dusting on powder This removes excess powder and prevents overload. After applying powder, set your base by spritzing your face with mineral water or facial toner. This ensures a fresh, dewy finish that does not look too powdered.
TRICKS OF THE TRADE : To test foundation shades, select three appropriate colors and put a streak of each over your face and jawline. The foundation that literally disappears into the skin is the appropriate one. Never sample shades on the back of your hand as the skin there is a different tone to the skin on your face.
If you have sensitive skin. Avoid foundations containing fragrance and PABA sunscreens.
Foundation can slide off. Within hours of application because of the skin’s natural oil secretions. To solve this, use a formula incorporating oil absorbers such as talc, kaolin or nylon powders.
Shield your skin. With a foundation containing a sun-protection factor. This is essential for daily wear, even when the weather is overcast.
Blot your skin with a tissue. After applying foundation to remove excess oil from your face. This helps to prolong the life of your make-up base. Then set with powder.
Wash sponges. Powder puffs or special applicators regularly. Use warm water and a little dishwashing liquid to remove bacteria and impurities.
EYEBROWS : Eyebrows act as a frame for your eyes and add definition and strength to your face. Even if you are not wearing make-up, well-groomed eyebrows enhance your total look.
To shape your eyebrows. Invest in a pair of slant-edged tweezers which grip hairs easily. Pluck before going to bed, so if the skin is a little red it will calm down while you sleep. Use your facial features as a guideline to shape your eyebrows. Place a ruler or pencil vertically alongside your nose and the inner edge of each eye. This is where the brows should start. Swivel the ruler or pencil form the top to the outer corner of the eye. This is where the brows should end.
Before plucking. Comb the brows one way and then the other to remove any loose hairs and then brush them into shape. Pluck hairs between the brows and any stragglers but never remove hairs from above your eyebrows. To achieve the perfect arch, hold a ruler vertically next to the outside of the arch. Pull the skin taut and pluck hairs individually, grasping close to the root, always working in the direction of growth. To avoid over-plucking, make-up artists recommend drawing in the desired brow shape with a pale concealer and using this as a guideline.
To define your eyebrows. Use a shade similar to your natural hair color and aim for an unmade-up looking finish. If you use a pencil, apply in small, feathered strokes (no longer than the average brow hair). Start at the inner corner of the brow and work outwards, then blend the color with a brush or your fingertips. Alternatively, use a sponge-tipped applicator and dust on a natural shade of eyeshadow that complements your hair color, and follow the shape of the brow.
To tame unruly eyebrows. And keep stray hairs in place, don’t splash out on expensive products. Slick moisturizer, hair gel or lip gloss through your brows and comb through to neaten them. Instead of discarding old mascara wands, clean them thoroughly with soap and warm water and then use them as brow-grooming implements.
TRICKS OF THE TRADE :
Sharpen blunt tweezers. Bu running sandpaper over the inner tips.
If plucking is too painful. Smooth on baby’s teething gel to temporarily numb the area.
Substitute a toothbrush. For a brow comb to groom your brows.
If you are slapdash. When applying brow pencil, take a tip from the experts. Rub the pencil on the back of your hand. Run over the mark you’ve made with a brow brush or cotton bud and use this to shade the brows instead.
EYESHADOW : Use eyeshadow to shade and highlight your eyes. Once you have mastered the basics of application, experiment with color. Remember that shades are not nearly as intense as they appear in their palettes always apply them sparingly and gradually build up color. Never match eyeshadow with the color of your iris look for shades that will enhance and bring out the natural hue of your eyes. As you age, it’s best to avoid wearing pearlised eyeshadows; matt colors have a more flattering effect on mature eyes.
EYELINER : Use eyeliner to define and enhance your eyes. Pencils are easy to use and you don’t need to be a professional to apply them. Should uneven lines or mishaps occur, simply smudge them into shape with a sponge-tipped applicator. Liquid eyeliner is the perfect tool to give eyes instant glamour but it can be tricky to apply. To make the task easier, place a mirror flat on a table and rest the hand manoeuvring the liner on this hard surface. Look down into the mirror and apply the liner. To improve the staying power of eyeliner, dip a moistened cotton bud into a similar shade of eyeshadow and use this to trace the line.
MASCARA : Before applying mascara, always give the lashes a quick fix with lash curlers. Clamp them near the roots and hold for 30 seconds. Never curl lashes loaded with mascara you run the risk of tearing them from the roots if the mascara dries or catches on the curlers.
To instantly plump up lashes. Plant the mascara wand into the root and sweep through to the tips. This gives root definition and separates the lashes at the same time. To define your lower lashes, use the tip of the wand and gently work the brush horizontally over the lashes. Separate the lashes using a comb and rectify and mishaps any mishaps with a cotton bud.
TRICKS OF THE TRADE :
If your eye pencil crumbles. As you’re using it, clasp the nib between your fingers and run it under cold water. This temporarily hardens the pencil to ease applications.
If you are short-sighted. Corrective lenses will magnify your eyes. Opt for eyeshadows in muted colors.
If you are far-sighted. Glasses make your eyes appear smaller. Go for brighter eyeshadow and several coats of mascara to make your eyes stand out.
If you have close-set eyes. Concentrate light colors on the inner corners and darker shades on the outer edges of your eyes.
To lift droopy eyes. Shade the outer corners of the eyes, tapering color upwards and outwards.
To elongate round eyes. Use color on the mid and outer eyelid. Don’t apply eyeliner on the lower lash line.
If you have wide-set eyes. Use darker colors on the inner corners and light shades on the outer edges of your eyes.
to enhance small eyes. Avoid using dark eyeshadow and concentrate color on the socket lines and outer corners of your eyes.
LIP LINER : It can be tricky to achieve the perfect lip-line, especially if you are a little over-enthusiastic and don’t have a steady hand. The best method is to apply the liner in a series of feather-strokes around the outer edge of the lips, then join and blend these with your fingertips or a lip brush.
If you want to do corrective work. For example, plump up narrow lips or emphasise a cupid’s bow, keep it to a minimum. It can look messy and require constant retouches. Instead, experiment, with different shades of lipstick. Pale tones add fullness t the lips and dark shades have a slimming effect.
LIP GLOSS : You don’t have to match your lipstick with your clothing or nail varnish. For a modern finish, take your skin tone and overall make-up look into consideration. Shades with brown undertones will flatter most complexions.
There is great variety of lipstick textures. Which range form matt and cream to sheer tints. Experiment with these, bearing in mind that matt is long-long-lasting but has a tendency to dehydrate the lips; creamy formulations last well; and lip tints provide a natural look and add lustre.
APPLICATION : Repeat this several times. Add a final coat of lipstick. Alternatively, once you’ve applied lipstick, place a tissue over the lips and dust them with a small amount of loose powder, ten remove the tissue.
TRICKS OF THE TR ADE :
Protect your lips. With lip balm or lipstick containing SPF 15. The lips do not contain melanin, the body’s natural sun-defence substance, and the lower lip is a common site for skin cancers.
If you’re in a hurry. Avoid wearing red and dark-colored lipsticks as they require precision application. Try lipsticks with neutral tones.
Avoid dark lip colors. If you have narrow lips. Paler shades enhance the shape of the lips, making them appear fuller.
If your lip liner is too dark. And won’t work in harmony with your chosen lip color, tone it down with a small amount of foundation, then apply lipstick.
Give your lips a top coat. Of vitamin E oil. It seals in the color, creates instant shine and helps to condition and protect this sensitive area.
Brightly colored lipsticks. Look great but there’s catch; because of the density of their color pigment, they tend to feather and bleed around the lip-line. To prevent this, define and coat the lips with liner before applying lipstick.
There is nothing more taboo. Than lipstick on your teeth. To prevent this, put your index finger in our mouth and close your lips. As you withdraw your finger it will remove any excess color which could end up on your teeth.
BLUSHER : Blusher should be used to add the finishing touches to your make-up and also to warm your skin. Whether you use a cream or powder formulation, the aim is to give your cheeks subtle definition and balance your total cosmetic look.
Cream blushers. Are easy to apply as they literally melt into the skin. They’re also beneficial for older skins as they won’t accentuate fine lines and wrinkles. Powder blushers are also easy to use and can be applied in seconds. Use your foundation finish as a guideline to choose a blusher formulation: team powdered complexions with powder blusher and creamy bases with cream blusher. Choose a shade that complements your make-up and skin tone. Use your lipstick color as a guide or invest in a natural tone which will flatter your skin and work well with any make-up look.
APPLICATION : Be careful not to place the color too close to the outer corners of your eyes when you apply blusher. It can creep into lines and crow’s-feet around the eyes and look caked. Also, always ensure you blend blusher thoroughly.
To contour your cheeks. Use a brush and follow the line of your cheekbone, working in small, circular movements. Dust the blusher on from the top of the bone downward so that the color fade is gradual.
To give your cheeks a rosy glow. Concentrate blusher onto the cheek apples, the roundest part of the cheekbone. Dust the color on the centre of the bone and work in small circular motions to achieve a natural finish.
CHANGING FACES : You can temporarily transform the shape of your face with a shader (a tone deeper than your existing blusher) and a high-lighter (you can use an ivory -colored eyeshadow). Use these lightly and blend thoroughly.
Round faces. Dust shader into your cheek hollows, high on your temples next to your hairline and faintly under your chin. Highlight along your cheekbones. Wearing blusher is optional but be wary of dusting it onto your cheek apples this may emphasise the roundness of your face.
Oval faces. Blend shader into cheek hollows and highlight the cheekbones near your eyes. Dust blusher onto cheek apples.
Heart-shaped face. To balance your face, highlight the cheekbones near your eyes. Dust blusher onto cheek apples.
Heart-shaped Faces. To balance your face, highlight your chin, shade your temples and dust blusher to your cheek hollows.
Square faces. Highlight the central strip from the centre of your forehead to your chin. Shade the sides of your forehead next to your hairline and faintly shade the square extremities of your jawline. Dust blusher onto your cheek apples.
TRICKS OF THE TRADE :
Create your own blusher. By using a natural pink or apricot shade of lipstick and dab it onto your cheek apples. Blend thoroughly using your fingertips.
To fade a double chin. Blend a shader onto the area to make it less dominant. If you darken the double chin, it will recede into the background.
Use creamy eyeshadow. In natural shades if you’ve run out of cream blusher.
To add a healthy glow. Employ a bronzing powder as a blusher and gradually build up the color.
For a flattering finish. If your don’t wear eyeshadow, sweep blusher over your eyelids to give subtle definition.
NAIL POLISH : Whether you opt for a pale enamel or the fashionable color of the moment, nail polish can accentuate your hands and add the finishing touches to your complete beauty look.
When selecting shades of nail enamel. Take your skin tone into account. Use the inside of your wrist as a guideline. If your skin has a bluish tinge, opt for shades with a cool base. If you have yellow-or olive-toned skin, opt for a warm-based polish. Avoid co-ordinating the color of your fingernails and toenails and never fall into the trap of matching nail polish with clothing and lipstick. A mismatched look is much more modern.
EXPRESS MANICURE : To keep your nails in optimum condition, run a soft-bristled nailbrush horizontally over them whilst in the shower. This will treat the cuticles, step up circulation and strengthen your nails.
Forget pushing the cuticles back manually. Look for a cuticle cream enriched with an alpha hydroxy acid complex. It helps dissolve dead skin cells and keeps cuticles in order.
Remove old polish with an acetone polish. It will temporarily dehydrate the nail so polish locks onto the nail plate more effectively.
Take short cuts to shape your nails. Use nail clippers first, then finish with a nail file. Only work the file in one direction otherwise you can traumatise the nail plate.
The secret to a lasting manicure. Lies in preparation. Before applying polish, run your hands under warm water and wash with a lanolin-free soap to remove any residues of nail treatments which can weaken nail polish. Your nails will then be ready for the application of color.
TRICKS OF THE TRADE :
Nails need protection. From the sun. Use a top coat enriched with UV filters. This also protects the nail polish from discoloration.
Never trim your cuticles. They protect the nail bed and act as a barrier against intruding bacteria. Gently push the cuticles back with a wet facecloth whilst in the shower.
If you have uneven ridges. In your nails, avoid pearly or frosted polishes as they highlight imperfections.
To make nail polish last. Store it in the fridge. To ensure an even consistency, never shake a bottle of nail polish. Instead, turn it upside down once and then gently roll it between the palms of your hands.
If you’re pushed for time. Give nude nails a high shine by running a chamois buffer over them in horizontal sweeping motions.
Invest in specialty products. Such as base coat and top coat as they have different purposes. A base coat feels sticky once applied to act as a fixative for nail enamel. It also prevents dark-colored polishes from staining the nail plate. A top coat dries hard, locking in color to give the surface a hard, protective barrier.
To clean up any smudges. And imperfections, use an old, clean lip brush dipped in nail polish remover.
If the nail plate is stained. From wearing highly pigmented polish, dissolve two denture-cleansing tablets in a glass of water. Dip a nail brush into the solution and gently scrub your nails clean. Rinse your hands with warm water.
TOOLS OF THE TRADE [1] Scissors an essential tool for beauty up-keep. [2] Eyebrow tamer/lash comb use the brush to tame eyebrows and the comb to separate eyelashes. [3] Fine-tipped brush to conceal pimples and minor imperfections. [4] Cotton buds essential to rectify make-up mistakes. [5] Lip brush use to outline and shade lips. [6] Flat brush this is a must to remove stray particles of eyeshadow which can fall under the eyes during application. [7] Powder brush a large-bristled brush delivers just the right amount of powder. [8] Blusher brush use this brush to dust color gently onto the cheek apples or to accentuate the shape of the cheekbones. [9] Lash groomer to tidy lashes and define their shape, especially if you’re not wearing mascara. [10] Eyeshadow brush a soft-bristled brush is ideal for blending eyeshadow and defining the eye socket with color. [11] Sponge-tipped applicator for applying eyeshadow. [12] Slant-edged brush perfect for shading the brows with eyeshadow. [13] Tweezers slant-edged tweezers grab hold of the hairs to ease plucking. [14] Eyelash curlers giving the lashes definition instantly opens the eyes. [15] Sponge use to smooth on foundation and to set your base after application. [16] Tissues a necessity for blotting foundation and lipstick after applying.
EXPRESS MAKE-OVER :
Follow these steps to achieve a natural look.
PRIME TIME : Begin by applying a hydrating preparation to give your skin a smooth finish. This will also act as the perfect fixative for foundation. Always blot your skin with a tissue after moisturizing to remove any excess surface oil.
TAKE COVER : Conceal pimples and disguise imperfections. To touch out blemishes, apply concealer with a fine-tipped brush. Dab color onto the centre of the pimple, then feather outwards. Pat concealer under the eyes, blending with the fingertips.
TOUCH BASE : Use a foundation with a built-in sunscreen. Smooth it on with your fingertips, warming it to melt into your skin. Only apply to areas that need it, where the skin tone is uneven, or to disguise open pores. Blend thoroughly.
PERFECT POWDER : Keep powder to a minimum. Look for a yellow-undertoned formula as translucent powder zaps color and may leave you looking washed out. Only dust powder onto areas prone to shine like the nose and chin.
BRIGHT EYES : Dab a light-toned eye-shadow onto the eyelid using a sponge-tipped applicator. Then apply a darker shade of the same color on the socket line with an eye-shadow brush. Blend thoroughly to achieve gradual color change.
DEFINER LINE : Definer the lower lash line with a taupe kohl pencil, then set with a light dusting of eye-shadow (the same shade used on the eye socket). Applying liner on the upper lash line isn’t necessary to achieve a natural look.
MAGIC WAND : Enhance your eyelashes by gradually plumping them up with several coats of mascara. This will be far more flattering than making one heavy-handed application. Plant the wand into the roots and gently pull through to the ends.
COLOR WASH : Use a lip liner in a shade that is similar to the natural color of your lips. Outline and shade the entire lip area. Next, apply a reddish brown lipstick and blot with a tissue. Reapply and repeat this process several times.
BLUSH TACTIC : To give your cheeks subtle color, load a blusher brush with a rosy beige powder, gently blow on it to remove excess powder, then softly sculpt the cheekbones. Set by pressing a damp sponge into the skin.
TOP COAT : Add the final touches with a slick of clear lip gloss. To accentuate your pout, concentrate shine on the centre of the lower lip. To define your eyebrows. smooth them into place with a small amount of gloss and comb to neaten.
PROBLEM AND SOLUTION :
[1] Does your blusher vanish within hours of application? Overcome this with double-color application. Pat on cream blusher over foundation and then set with powder blusher in a similar shade.
[2] Do you end up with mascara-clogged lashes? Prior to application, wipe the mascara wand with a tissue. This removes the excess mascara which can overload the eyelashes.
[3] Does your foundation emphasise fine lines and wrinkles? Avoid wearing matt foundations they will only accentuate lines and wrinkles. Creamy formulas give a dewy finish and detract from signs of ageing.
[4] Do you suffer from tired, lifeless-looking eyes? Applying a smudge of silver shine on the inner corner of each eye will instantly revitalise and brighten sleep-looking eyes.
[5] Can you achieve great-looking nails in a hurry? Run a white eyeliner underneath the nail tip and then paint the nail with a fast-drying coat of clear polish. This creates a French-manicured effect within minutes.
[6] How do you remove traces of smudged eyeliner or flaky mascara without disturbing the rest of your make-up? Arm yourself with cotton buds or an old, clean lip brush. Dip the bud or brush in make-up remover and gently use it to perfect mistakes.
[7] Are you too heavy-handed with blusher? Tone down unsigtly color by pressing face powder into your cheeks, then spritz your skin with water or facial toner.
[8] Is your lip pencil hard to manoeuvre? Gently run the nib of the pencil over the back of the hand before applying.
