Most of us are born with perfect skin. While a lucky few manage to maintain a clear complexion over the years, most of he rest have experienced a few unwanted changes. For some it may be small irritations such as breakouts, dark patches after a pregnancy or enlarged pores. For others, it may be a more severe skin condition, like eczema or acne. Everyone experiences marks and blemishes on their skin at some point. Some are permanent, others tend to come and go. Most will be of no importance, while some may require a professional opinion. While you can never regain the skin you were born with, there are many things you can do to improve your lot and treat a problem. The key is getting to know and understand your skin, so that you are able to identify what needs to be done. Make a habit of checking your skin regularly. If you tend to problem skin, be aware of your diet and lifestyle choices they may well be the underlying cause. Also realize and accept that your skin is constantly changing and that you may need to adapt your skincare routine accordingly.
ALL ABOUT ACNE: Age is not a sure guarantee against pimples or acne. In fact, many people only experience acne for the first time in their adult years; recent studies show that 40-50% of adults between the ages of 20-40 are diagnosed with low-grade persistent acne.
The exact cause of acne cannot be pinpointed. A number of factors seem to have an effect, including genetics, hormones, physiology, stress and the use of certain cosmetics. This type of acne ranges from a few isolated spots to severe breakouts, which can lace unsightly scars. Acne results when the sebaceous (oil) glands secrete too much sebum into the hair follicle, which is lined with dead cells. The combination of excess sebum and dead cells clog up the pores, which are the pipelines for the natural flow of oil to the skin’s surface. As a result bacteria build up, the area becomes inflamed, and spots or pimples may appear. Acne most commonly occurs where the sebaceous glands are most active on the face, neck, chest and back. A variety of blemishes result:
- Blackheads are similar to white-hands, except the blocked material protrudes above the skin, dilating the pore. The black color is due to the oxidization process that occurs within the follicle.
- Papules are inflammations under the skin. When the sebum build-up becomes too much, the follicle expands and eventually bursts, releasing the sebum and dead cell build-up onto the surface of the skin. White blood cells then attack this material, forming pus, and a pustule results.
- Cysts occur when inflammation spreads deep into the skin. To contain it, the cells automatically form a fibrous capsule around it. Cysts can continue to grow slowly under the skin and usually need to be surgically removed.
- Scars result when damaged skin tries to heal itself. Naturally, scars can be severely aggravated by picking or squeezing.
WHAT CAUSES ACNE ?
Hormones. Throughout your life, hormones will play a very important role in determining the ups and downs of your skin. Oestrogen is an important skin regulator, and an excess of male hormones can cause acne. Men and women both produce male hormones (androgne and testosterone) and female hormones (oestrogen and progesterone) only the ratio of these hormones differ between the sexes. When the levels of androgen increase during puberty, ovulation, menstruation and childbirth, for example the skin produces more oil and acne can result.
Diet. There is not enough evidence to suggest that acne and diet are related, but some people find that certain foods make their acne worse. Common culprits include chocolate, caffeine, nuts, high-fat and spicy foods, citrus fruits, refined foods, dairy products, and foods with a high iodide content, such as shellfish. Certain medications can also cause a flare-up.
Stress. Stress triggers the adrenal glands to release the hormone cortisol, which increases the secretion of sebum. Stress inducers include skimping on sleep skipping meals and ingesting too much caffeine. All these factors trigger the adrenaline in your body to mobilize stored nutrients, which in turn slows down natural exfoliation processes. The remedy? Get enough sleep, follow a balanced diet, drink plenty of water, and cut down on caffeine and high-fat foods. In severe cases or if there is no change, consult a skincare professional.
TREATING ACNE-PRONE SKIN : 1. A regular purifying and cleansing routine will help remove excess sebum on the skin’s surface, a breeding ground for bacteria. Try using a daily gentle antibacterial wash to help cleanse bacteria from the skin, combined with a beta hydroxy acid such as salicylic acid, which stimulates the skin’s natural exfoliation process. As dead cells become ‘unstuck’, there is less chance of clogged pores. Salicylic acid also helps to curb an oily shine.
2. Even oily skin needs daily moisture. If you skin is very oily, choose a lightweight lotion to replace moisture without adding oil. Make sure the product you buy is oil-free or noncomedogenic, which means it won’t block pores. If you wear make-up look out for foundations that ‘mattify’ or control oil, as they will help eliminate shine.
3. Remember that fingers dipped into shared products increase the risk of contamination. If possible, opt for products that are specially sealed or have pump dispensers.
4. Benzoyl peroxide is a fast-zapping, nonprescription ingredient that is particularly effective at speeding up the drying up and peeling of spots. It is available in varying strengths and should be introduced at low concentrations as it can be very drying and may cause allergies.
5. If your acne doesn’t respond to nonprescription remedies (give it at least six weeks), it’s best to go for a medical diagnosis with a dermatologist who can prescribe a stronger formulation. Antibiotics can be taken orally (erythromycin and tetracycline are commonly used) or applied topically. The two other proven acne treatments are Retin-A and Roaccutane. Retin-A is an imitation of retinoic acid, the naturally occurring from of vitamin A found in the skin. Its main action is keratolytic, which means it acts as a peeling agent that loosens dead surface cells. Retin-A is a very powerful drug that only needs to be applied to the acne areas in very small doses. The problem is that retinoic acid can be irritating and drying, and causes increased sensitivity to the sun and other products applied to the skin. Retinoid isotretinoin (Roaccutane) is a synthetic version of vitamin A that’s taken orally once or twice a day for four months. It’s extremely effects include dryness and increased skin sensitivity. Very strict birth control needs to be practiced while taking Roaccutane as it can cause major birth defects.
FACT OR FICTION ?
Chocolate and fatty foods cause acne. There is no scientific evidence to indicate that diet plays a determining role. The ‘westernized’ diet is high in preservatives, colorants the most acne-prone populations. The Asian and Mediterranean populations, however generally eat more good fatty acids and far less processed foods. Although acne is less common in these areas, the role of genetic factors is unclear.
Acne is due to poor hygiene. The blackheads we see are a result of an oxidization process that turn the sebum and dead cells black in color. It is not dirt. In fact, over cleansing can aggravate acne.
Sunlight improves acne. The sun can seem to improve the complexion, but it also suppresses the immune system. That is why acne often seems to get worse a few weeks after sun exposure. The sun also stimulates sebum secretion. It is more advisable to wear an oil free sunscreen.
Don’t be tempted to remove skin impurities such as blackheads by harsh squeezing or without preparing your skin first.
Did You Know ? Skin that is irritated by a cleanser or moisturizer reacts by forming a protective layer by adhering more skin cells onto the surface.
COMMON PROBLEMS :
ROSACEA: Rosacea is often referred to as ‘acne rosacea’ but is not the same as acne. Characterized y red and inflamed skin, particularly on the cheeks, nose, forehead and chin, it may begin as a tendency to blush or flush easily and progresses to persistent redness. Small blood vessels and tiny pimples may also occur. It’s most common in women between the ages of 30 and 50 and some cases have been associated with menopause. The exact cause is unknown, although it’s believed to be due to a disorder of the blood vessels, which become oversensitive to stimulation. Heat and sunlight may aggravate it as they stimulate the release of chemicals that encourage the blood vessels to enlarge. Rosacea is not caused by excessive alcohol, but can be aggravated by it as alcohol causes the blood vessels to dilate. Severe cases are sometimes accompanied by burning of the eyes. Treatment includes oral and topical antibiotics and avoiding extreme temperatures and spicy foods. Cortisone creams may reduce the redness of rosacea, however, they must only be used under the supervision of a dermatologist and for longer that two weeks at a time as they can thin the skin. Red wine, oranges and caffeine may also aggravate rosacea, as do scrubbing or rubbing the face and irritating facial products. It can become worse without treatment.
ECZEMA : Eczema, also called dermatitis, describes a family of itchy, red skin conditions. A-topic eczema is an illness (usually an allergy) that runs in the family. It is the most common from of eczema and is characterized by chronic dryness, redness, chapping and itching. It usually appears first during childhood and most patients recover before the age of 25, although some live with it their entire lives. generally runs in families who also suffer from other allergies such as hay fever and ashma. In teens and young adults, the spots usually break out where the elbow bends, on the backs of the knees, ankles, wrists, and on the face, neck and upper chest. It’s important not to scratch as this can lead to infection. A-topic eczema can be partly relieved by avoiding irritants like feathers and wool blankets; dogs, birds and cats; harsh detergents; and certain foods such as wheat, dairy and chocolate. Stress can also exacerbate the condition. Some over-the-counter products can relieve the itching, while topical steroid creams help soothe and calm the skin. It’s best to consult a dermatologist for the correct diagnosis and treatment.
PSORIASIS : This chronic skin disease is caused by an overproduction of cells in the epidermis and ineffective desquamation (shedding of these cells), the combination of which causes cells to accumulate and form red, scaly patches, especially around the elbows, knees, and scalp. Psoriasis tends to run in families and is not contagious. Mild or average cases can be treated with a prescription cream or lotion. If it’s severe, your dermatologist may prescribe medication light therapy. Although psoriasis can be contained, it’s unlikely to be permanently cured.
VITILIGO : This skin disease manifests as white patches on the surface of the skin. The patches are due to a loss of pigment, but dermatologists are not entirely sure what causes this.
Vitiligo usually appears on the face, lips, hands, arms, legs and genital areas, but can appear anywhere on the body. The amount of color a person loses varies: people with a light-colored skin usually see the difference between patches of vitiligo and tanned skin in summer. For people with darker skin, vitiligo is quite visible all year round.
The most common way to treat it is with light therapy and medicine. It is also possible to hide the marks by using special cosmetic camouflage products. Very often, such products are also water resistant.
PIGMENTATION : Unbalanced pigmentation is very common and may be a result of years of sun-worshipping or skin trauma. As discussed previously, the skin has pigment-producing cells called melanocytes that determine skin tone. Dark skins have larger melanin granules, which means more in-built protection, and so are more resistant to sun damage. Fairer skins have less melanin and thus are more likely to develop brown patches from sun exposure. However, skin with more melanin tends to have more hyper pigmentation related to scarring.
While pigmentation can largely be avoided by staying out of the sun, many women experience hyper pigmentation during pregnancy due to hormone activity, even if they avoid the sun. Chloasma or the ‘mask of pregnancy’ consists of brown patches that appear on the forehead, cheeks and above the lip. A variety of topical treatments is available that can lighten blemishes, and chemical skin peels, microdermabrasion and laser resurfacing will brighten the skin.
HORMONES AND SKIN : When a women is pregnant, the additional hormones can cause many changes in the skin. While a beautiful rosy glow is associated with the first trimester and is a result of an abundant supply of oxygen, various sensitivities are likely to appear due to increased hormone activity. Conditions such as rashes, dryness, acne and allergies to your normal skincare products are common.
It’s important to be extra conscientious with sun protection during pregnancy, as hormonal changes make the skin more susceptible to pigmentation damage. important for the maintenance of your skin during this time: vitamin E and zinc have been shown to help reduce stretch marks, and vitamin C aids in collagen production. Always consult your doctor before taking any tablets during pregnancy and while breastfeeding.
Oral contraceptives have similar effects, leading to many of the same skin problems. Although different from person to person, many women on oral contraceptives are more sensitive to sunlight and can develop uneven skin tone and hyper pigmentation if they don’t protect themselves adequately. Oral contraceptives can also lead to increased oil production or dehydration.
Did You Know? Viruses that sit on the skin’s surface and penetrate the stratum corneum when it’s damaged cause warts. They can be passed form person to person and are most common on the fingers and feet.
- Eczema generally causes dry and itchy patches of skin.
- If, unlike this woman, you suffer from a topic dermatitis, you should wash newly bought clothes before wearing them and keep your pets outdoors. Children should avoid fuzzy toys and blankets.
- Pregnancy causes severe hormonal changes in a woman’s body that may also affect her skin.
