SKINCARE : The skin’s needs change from season to season, and with age, hormonal fluctuations, diet and lifestyle. Finding products to suit these requirements can often be a costly, hit-and-miss affair. To make skincare simple, first identify your skin type and then address its needs.
Normal skin : Has an even tone, a smooth texture, no visible pores or blemishes, and no greasy patches or flaky areas. A basic beauty regime is sufficient to maintain its natural balance, but don’t be tempted to neglect your skin a great-looking complexion won’t last forever.
Sensitive skin : Is commonly dry, delicate and prone to allergic reactions. Temperature changes, some detergents, cosmetics and alcohol (used on the skin) can all cause irritation, leaving the skin red and blotchy, with visible surface veins. Choose products that do not contain allergens such as fragrance or PABA sunscreens.
Oily skin : Is characterised by an over-production of sebum (the skin’s natural hydrator), which results in spots and blemishes. The great advantage of this skin type is that it ages at a slower rate than other skin types. Avoid harsh products that strip your skin of oil and encourage flakiness. They can cause a reaction known as reactive seborrhoea, where the oil glands work overtime to compensate for the loss of natural oils. Products that leave your skin feeling taut and dehydrated should also be avoided, as they cause the upper layers the skin to shrink. This restricts oil flow through the pores and leads to blockages and breakouts. To cleanse oily skin, use oil-based products as they dissolve sebum effectively. Opt for oil-free moisturizers to maintain a shine-free complexion.
Dry skin : Has a low level of sebum and can be prone to sensitivity. Dryness is exacerbated by wind, extremes of temperature and airconditioning, all of which cause the skin to flake, chap and feel tight. Use moisture-rich products and increase the intake of essential fatty acids in your diet. If you have dry skin, use a cream-or oil-based cleanser. Avoid water-soluble variants as exposing dry skin to water can aggravate the condition.
SKIN SOLUTIONS :
Exercise. Benefits skin as it boosts circulation and encourages blood flow. Regular exercise will nourish and cleanse your skin form within.
CLEANSING : When you choose a cleanser, consider your skin type and your personal preferences. Also bear in mind that cleanser is only ever on the skin for little more than 30 seconds. An effective cleanser should remove impurities without leaving any residue or greasy film on your skin once it is removed.
Avoid cleansing with soap and water. Skin is slightly acidic whereas soap is alkaline it disrupts the skin’s naturally acidic protective film. An oil-based cleanser it suitable for all skin types and removes make-up effectively. Water-soluble and oil-based cleansers are ideal for oily and combination skins. Cream cleansers suit dry skins. If your have sensitive skin, avoid cleansers rich in fragrance, color and any potential skin irritants.
When applying an oil-based or cream cleanser. Smooth it on, leave it for a few seconds to dissolve impurities and then gently wipe it off with a damp tissue or cotton wool. If you’re using wash-off cleanser, apply it to damp skin and then rinse with warm water. Removing cleanser with a facial sponge or cleansing brush will remove impurities and exfoliate the skin at the same time.
EXFOLIATING : Skin constantly produces new cells and sheds old ones. Normal skin renews its cells every 28 days. This process slows down with age, and leaves the complexion looking dull and lifeless. Exfoliating scrubs, creams or gels whisk away dead skin cells and the manual pressure exerted during exfoliation peps up circulation and helps stimulate cell production. Exfoliate your face every tow to three days. If you have acne or sensitive skin, use a peel-off face mask instead of an exfoliator.
TONING : Using toner after cleansing is optional. With refresh your skin and remove any impurities or remnants of cleanser. Avoid alcohol based toner even if you have an oily complexion, as it strips the skin of essential moisture. Floral waters are inexpensive alternatives to commercial toners: witch-hazel is ideal for oily, problem skin; rose water for dry complexions; and camomile water suits both normal and sensitive skins.
SKIN SOLUTIONS :
(1) To cleanse the eye area. Don’t use your normal cleanser. Look for special oil-free eye make-up removers. They contain scientifically rested ingredients that won’t irritate the delicate eye area.
(2) After cleansing. Gently splash your face with cold water. This is a great pick-me-up in the mornings and will jump-start the skin’s circulation.
(3) Avoid exfoliating. The skin on your face if you have networks of surface veins, it can intensify the problem.
(4) For a skin-reviving treat. Decant some toner into a plastic spray bottle and store it in the fridge. Use it when required as a skin booster or as a cooling treat in summer.
MOISTURIZING : Your skin has a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) that regulates water flow from the dermis (the skin’s deepest layer) to the surface. Sebum (the skin’s natural hydrator) also plays a vital role in the prevention of moisture loss, forming a barrier on the surface of the skin that delays water evaporation. With age, both the NMF and sebum production decrease, hence the need for a water-regulating moisturizer. All skin types, even those prone to oiliness, need moisturizing twice a day.
There are two types of moisturizers: Humectants and occlusives. Humectants draw water up form the depths of the dermis or attract it from the surrounding atmosphere. Occlusives create an oily film on the skin’s surface to seal in moisture and prevent it from evaporating into the atmosphere.
Choose a moisturizer to suit your skin type : Oil-free formulas and oil-in-water emulsions benefit oily skins, and water-in-oil formulations, which are more hydrating, suit dry/normal skins. Always spritz your skin with water before applying moisturizer. The water ‘plumps’ up the skin cells, creating an even surface and makes lines less apparent, and the moisturizer prevents this water from evaporating. Today’s advanced formulations can maintain this effect for up to 12 hours.
STEAMING : Giving your face a steam or sauna is a good deep-cleansing treat, especially for congested skin. Remove all make-up and add three drops of each essential oil recommended for your skin type; for normal skin use lavender and mandarin; for dry skin use camomile and rose; for oily skin lemon and eucalyptus; and for combination skin lavender and cypress. Once you’ve added the oils, agitate the water to disperse the droplets. Hold your face about 20-30 cm above the bowl and place a towel over your head and the bowl for three minutes. This opens the pores and prepares your skin for the application of a face mask.
Avoid this treatment if you have sensitive skin : Or broken capillaries on your face. This intense heat of the water causes the blood vessels under the surface of the skin to dilate, exacerbating the problem. Facial steaming is not recommended if you are pregnant or suffer from asthma.
SKIN SOLUTIONS :
(1) To apply moisturizer. Pat it onto your skin instead or smoothing it on. This increases circulation and invigorates your complexion.
(2) During the day. Use a moisturizer containing sunscreen and smooth on a preparation enriched with antioxidants or alpha hydroxy acids at night.
(3) While steaming your face. Protect the delicate skin around your eyes with a film of moisturizer.
(4) To zap pimples. And blemishes, dab tea-tree or lavender oil (which both have anti-bacterial properties) onto the effected area with a cotton bud.
FACE MASKS : Use a face mask once a week. For the best results, apply the mask after a facial steam and leave it on only for the time specified by the manufacturer.
When choosing a mask : Bear the following in mind: mud-or clay-enriched masks are ideal for deep-cleansing the skin. They contain negatively charged ions, which attract positively charged impurities. Gel-based masks set to form a fine film, which when washed away removes dead cells and grime. Rich cream masks (which do no set) are beneficial for dry and mature skins. Sulphur-based masks treat oily and problems skins but should not be used on sensitive or dry skins. Fast-acting masks are an option when you’re pushed for time.
EYE CARE : Because the skin around your eyes is much thinner than the skin on the rest of your face, it requires extra care, especially to ward off sings of ageing. Use an eye cream or gel both at nigh and in the morning. Only apply it along the orbital bone (the bone directly under the eye). Gently pat it on, being careful not to drag the skin.
Dark circles under your eyes. Can be the result of poor circulation, medication, illness or toxin build-up; they can also be hereditary. The skin in this area is thin, so the blood vessels lie close to the surface, giving it a blue-black tint. If the blood vessels leak, darker, even permanent, discoloration can occur. Dark circles can be camouflaged with concealer, or permanently lightened by a chemical peel, an extremely painful process.
Puffiness around your eyes. Is caused by a build-up of toxins or excess fluids. To help reduce any swelling, stimulate your lymphatic system by pressing gently along the eyebrow and around the eye socket with your middle finger. For a cooling and soothing effect, store an eye cream or gel in the fridge and gently pat it onto the delicate skin around your eyes.
LIP CARE : Lips lack several of the body’s protective substances, so they need extra protection. Without an effective lipid barrier, they lose moisture regularly; their lack of hydrating sebaceous glands makes them prone to chapping and dryness; and, lacking melanin (the body’s natural protector), they burn easily.
Wear protective lip balm. Enriched with a sun filter or lipstick with a high SPF when outdoors. To maintain the condition of your lips, coat them with Vaseline and then gently exfoliate using a clean toothbrush.
SKIN SOLUTIONS :
(1) Treat sore eyes. Caused by exposure to the sun, wind or chlorine with a soothing eye bath. Try blending 1-2 tablespoons of rose water with 150 ml distilled water to bathe your eyes.
(2) Avoid taking antibiotics. If possible as they destroy intestinal bacteria, which are essential for healthy skin. If you take antibiotics, counterbalance their effects by eating foods rich in vitamin B.
(3) Keep your lips hydrated. With lip balm and make sure the surrounding skin is sufficiently moisturized to prevent lines form appearing around your mouth.
CHANGING FACES :
Address your skin’s needs as you age : IN YOUR 20s, since cell turnover is at its best, your complexion should be in optimum condition after undergoing major changes in the teenage years. If your skin is functioning properly, a basic skincare regime is sufficient. Avoid soaps as they have a dehydrating effect, so look for pH-balanced cleansing bars instead. Toner is optional and use a moisturizer regularly. Pay close attention to your neck, throat and hands when applying moisturizer and look after the delicate skin around your eyes.
If you sunbathed regularly. As a teenager, damage to your skin’s blueprint cells may already have been done. Take preventative measures by wearing sunscreen daily.
Skin prone to excessive oiliness. And pimples is often a result of hormones that are still stabilising . Opt for oil-free skincare products and cosmetics. Steaming your face regularly and applying face masks will also benefit congested skin.
IN YOUR 30s. Cell turnover and sebum production decrease and lines and wrinkles become more obvious. Exfoliate your skin at least twice a week and use a hydrating mask once a week. Use an eye-care preparation at night and in the morning.
Pigmentation problems. Are common during these years as the skin becomes less efficient at manufacturing melanin. brown patches known as melasma or chloasma can appear around the eyes, lips, cheeks and forehead during pregnancy, or as a result of hormonal changes, exposure to the sun or taking the contraceptive pill. There are various options to treat uneven skin tone. Creams containing hydroquinone, a substance that temporarily halts pigment production, help the condition. Retina A is also an option for treating hyper-pigmentation but if your skin is sensitive, it can actually cause further darkening. Laser resurfacing can also be used to remove patches of uneven skin tone.
IN YOUR 40s. The protective film on the skin’s surface becomes less effective at retaining moisture. This causes a much higher percentage of water loss, which leads to dryness. Apply moisturizer twice a day and look for preparations such as firming serums that offer the skin extra reinforcement.
Fine lines, wrinkles, broken veins. And dull skin can be made less apparent with chemical peels or regular facials. Exfoliate your skin and treat both your face and eyes to treatment masks twice a week. Use a cream cleanser instead of a water-soluble type, as constantly wetting and drying your face will only step up moisture loss. Increase your intake of antioxidants by eating fresh fruits and vegetable or by taking a daily vitamin supplement.
Sun or age spots. On the face can treated with creams containing retinoic acid, hydroquinone, glycolic or kojic acid. They can also be eradicated by chemical peels and laser treatments.
IN YOUR 50s. Cell turnover decreases by almost 50%, the production of sebum for natural hydration slows down and the skin’s outer layer becomes less resilient. After the menopause, oestrogen (the skin’s youth hormone) production slows down and the skin becomes much drier. Oestrogen diminishes collagen (the skin’s structural support system), making the skin thinner. Using a product enriched with an alpha hydroxy acid is believed to boost the production of collagen. Look for moisture-rich products, use a cream cleanser, avoid alcohol-based toners and opt for specialist products to care for your eyes and lips. Ensure that you drink sufficient amounts of water each day.
As the skin’s resilience breaks down. Broken capillaries can appear on the surface. These can be treated with a course of laser resurfacing or sclerotherapy, in which a solution is injected into the vein, causing it to recede.
PREVENT SKIN AGEING :
There are two types of skin ageing: intrinsic ageing, the natural, biological process which is beyond our control; and extrinsic ageing, which is caused by factors including environmental aggressors, diet, lifestyle, medication and stress. In the past, anti-ageing procedures were limited. Now there are relatively simple measures on offer which give results that are comparable to a surgical facelift.
MASSAGE : When applying moisturizer, try lightly circling your hands up form your chin to the center of your forehead and gliding each hand down each side of your face, repeating 12 times. To keep facial lines form setting in around your mouth, over-exaggerate smiling, and then gnash your teeth together. Repeat each motion 24 times. To prevent a wrinkled neck, sweep your hands up under your chin and down again. Repeat 12 times.
MUSCLE TONING : Electrotherapy involves the stimulation of the underlying muscles of the face with a mild, painless electric current. This treatment is costly and requires constant maintenance sessions after the initial course.
ANTIOXIDANTS : Skin is constantly under attack form free radicals, rogue molecules that accelerate premature ageing. Vitamins E and C and beta-carotene are antioxidants that help put a stop to free radical activity. All working in slightly different ways, the overall effect of antioxidants in creams will protect the skin form environmental factors, while antioxidants taken orally, in tablet form or from foods such as fresh fruits and vegetables help to neutralise the by-products of this oxidation process. Antioxidants should be an integral part of any anti-ageing regime.
LYMPH STIMULATION : Women can suffer from water retention on both the face and body. Stimulating the lymphatic system helps address this problem. Lymphatic drainage fails help reshape the face by reducing puffiness around the eyes, cheeks and chin.
LINE FILLERS : For those who want to lessen the appearance of wrinkles caused by frowning and scowling, line-filling injections are an option. Synthetic collagen or the body’s own fat, which is removed from an area such as the hips or thighs, is injected into wrinkles. The results are short-term, as collagen is absorbed into the body within three months and only some of the fat remains permanent. To maintain effects, top-up treatments are essential.
AHAs : With regular use, AHAs improve overall skin texture and make ageing skins look more radiant. They are also reputed to boost the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid (the skin’s natural water retaining substance).
CHEMICAL PEELS : High concentrates of alpha hydroxy acids are used to peel off the outer layers of the skin, removing fine lines and wrinkles. The concentration of acids used ranges from 15% strength, commonly used in beauty salons, to 70% strength, administered by surgeons and dermatologists for severely damaged and mature skins. Recovery periods very depending on the strength of the peel. It can be a painful process but it does result in younger, smoother skin.
LASER RESURFACING : A good alternative to surgery, laser resurfacing removes the outer layers of old, wrinkled or sun-damaged skin. It can also treat age spots and uneven skin tone. This non-invasive treatment is more accurate and less painful than the surgeon’s knife, and the skin heals faster than if you’ve had cosmetic surgery. Recovery periods vary, usually 10 days after a treatment the skin is red but can be concealed with make-up. Within six weeks it will have healed totally.
HEALTHY SKIN :
Follow these steps to achieve a radiant complexion.
DETOX DRINK : Start your day with a cup of boiling water laced with the juice of half a lemon. This drink flushes out any impurities that may have but up in your system overnight. Lemon also acts as a gentle cleanser for the liver.
FADDISH FOODS : Apart from piling on the pounds, certain fats actually accelerate ageing because they increase free radical activity within the body. Avoid polyunsaturated fats. which are found mainly in processed foods and in peanut, safflower and corn oils.
INNER HEALTH : Improve skin condition from within by taking a cod liver oil tablet once a day. Cod liver oil is a rich source of vitamins A and D and essential fatty acids, all vital for a radiant complexion. It is also reputed to help disorders such as eczema and psoriasis.
EYE BATH : Alternatively, place two stainless steel spoons in the freezer for a couple f minutes, and then place them over your eyes to reduce puffiness.
STUB IT OUT : Smoking half a packet of cigarettes a day for two years can double the rate of premature facial wrinkling. If you give up smoking, ease withdrawal symptoms by taking a high-potency vitamin B complex supplement.
HUMIDITY CONTROL : Airconditioning robs the skin of essential moisture and can aggravate dryness. If you work in an airconditioned office or use a radiator during winter, buy a humidifier or place a bowl of water next to your desk. These will boost the moisture content of the air.
HELPING HAND : If you have a youthful complexion, aged hands can give the game away. Always wear hand cream enriched with sun filters. Before washing up. slather on hand cream, then put on rubber gloves. The heat of the water will intensify the activity of he cream.
SLEEP WELL : How you sleep can affect your looks. Dermatologists can identify which side of your face you sleep on by looking at your wrinkles. To help overcome this, sleep on a big, soft non synthetic pillow with a satin pillow case.
PROBLEM AND SOLUTION :
(1) How can you temporarily zap pimples ? Make-up artists use eyedrops to eradicated pimples. Dab a drop onto blemishes with a cotton bud to reduce surface redness.
(2) Is there a way to improve problem skin? Oily skins can be aggravated by eating certain foods. Steer clear of oranges, orange juice, tomatoes and dairy produce.
(3) Should you wear a sunscreen every day? Shield your skin at all times with high SPF products, even when the weather is overcast, as 60-80% of the sun’s damaging ultraviolet rays penetrate clouds.
(4) Does your skin feel taut after cleansing? Using a harsh cleanser or rinsing with hot water can have a dehydrating effect on your skin. Use a cream cleanser to avoid this problem.
(5) Is there a quick fix for puffy eyes? If you wake up with puffy eyes, soak two cotton wool pads in cold milk and then use them as compresses on your eyes for 10 minutes.
(6) Do you have open pores? Often hereditary, open pores on the chin, forehead and nose can be treated with regular cleansing and facials to remove excess sebum.
(7) How can you keep blackheads at bay? Steaming your face regularly and applying face masks will treat blackheads.
(8) How much water should you drink to maintain healthy skin? Aim to drink between one and two litres of filtered or bottled spring water each day. Drinking more than this puts unnecessary pressure on the kidneys.
(9) Should exfoliators be applied on wet or dry skin? Only use an exfoliator on damp skin, otherwise it can have an abrasive effect. Avoid using an exfoliator if you have surface veins.
(10) Do you have tiny, pearl-colored spots around your eyes and cheeks? Known as milia, these spots are formed when sebum is trapped under the skin. Seek professional help from a beauty therapist to remove them.
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